Indians are no strangers to community eating as a concept, ‘sanjha chulhas’ of rural North India where women of the neighbourhood share one big tandoor to cook their rotis, or the Durga Pujo bhog of Bengal that is known to serve up to 2000 people a day, are a few examples. We love our food, and more than that, we love sharing our food, our kitchens and our stories. The ‘Bohri Thal’ is another fascinating concept of dining together. Did you know, you wouldn’t find a dining table in traditional Bohri Muslim household? That’s because at the time of meal, the entire family sits on Persian rugs spread out on the floor and eat food from one thali. Yes, just one thali.
History Of Bohri Thal:
When the Bohri community started marching towards India from Yemen 1000 years back, they reached the shores of Gujarat and found home in the town of Siddhpur. The architecture of the artful Havelis and dwellings of erstwhile Bohri Muslims make for a fascinating subject for every history nerd. But what was common in houses both big and small was the conspicous absence of the dining table. Food was meant to enjoyed together as a family, and to ensure this, the concept of 'Bohri Thal' took shape. The ‘Bohri Thaal’ is an enormously sized plate (2.5 ft in diameter), studded with numerous bowls and vessels containing food that is enough to serve about eight people. The thaal is placed on a ‘Tarakht’ or a brass ring. “There is no head of the table and all diners are considered equal.”, Dr.Anshumali writes in his book 'The History of Indian Food'. He further writes that a special guest may be invited to “upar biaso, to sit on the side opposing the serving area.” The diners help themselves, and others sitting around them who are not able to reach to a particular vessel. There would be a host who will take charge of refills, and make sure everyone is getting adequate food. Every diner takes a portion of rice to his or her side of the thal, mix it with the gravy of his her/choice and finish that portion.
The youngest member of the house offers salt to ever diner at the start of the meal, the diners are supposed to taste a bit of salt with their index finger, is a mark of showing respect to food placed in front of them, and further reinforces the idea of togetherness and equality, the book notes.
Needless to say, food wastage is not encouraged. In India, at large food wastage is considered a major taboo even today.
Bohris also start their meal with something sweet, as opposed to ending it with one, just so that their meal experience starts on a high.
The thaal is the symbol of inclusivity, equality and living together as a community. The Bohris believe that there’s enough that has been bestowed on mankind by God, and hence it must be shared and not hoarded.
Chicken or mutton biryani, lagaan ya seekh (a minced kebab like dish topped with eggs), kheema na samosa, mutton khari chawal, dal chawal palidu are some of the dishes you are most likely to find on the thal.