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Marking the Assamese New Year, Bohag Bihu is all about rhythmic beats of dhol, vibrant dance performances, and, most enticingly, the irresistible aromas of traditional Assamese cuisine. This seven-day celebration is deeply rooted in agrarian traditions that honour the harvest season and community bonds through elaborate feasting rituals that have been preserved for generations
From the traditionally made varieties of pitha, including til pitha, ghila pitha, and sunga pitha, to the lesser-known dishes of Assam, Bihu calls for celebrating the local cuisine of Northeast India. To dive deeper into the hidden gems and long-lost family recipes, Slurrp interviewed Chef Atul Lahkar, the owner of Heritage Khorikaa Restaurant and Hurum Cafe, and Chef Gitika Saikia, who runs Gitika's PakGhor. Read on for some hidden gems and heartwarming stories.
Chef Atul Lahkar
With over three decades of exploring and reviving the ethnic cuisines of Northeast India, Atul Lahkar is one of the most celebrated chefs in the country. Remembering his earliest memories of Bihu, the chef shares, “Bohag Bihu represents not merely a festive event but a pivotal moment in our Assamese culture, signifying the renewal of the new year per the lunar calendar. Growing up, I used to await my mother’s Pitha and Laru, and her renowned preparations of meat and fish. The tang of her fish tenga, the warmth of her mutton light curry, and the aromatic richness of her pigeon with black pepper remain vivid. She also prepared a nuanced stir-fry of banana flowers with potatoes, which showcased the depth of flavour achievable within local culinary confines. It was in that rustic kitchen, saturated with smoke and spices, that my culinary foundation was established.”
Whenever someone from India talks about Bohag Bihu, the dishes that first come to mind include til pitha, laru, or Payox. However, chefs who have grown up in the Northeastern side of the country have a plethora of lesser-known dishes made for the festival in different regions.
Among the many endangered recipes within Assam's culinary repertoire, Chef Atul talks about the one he is particularly fond of, saying, “Parar Jalukiya, features pigeon slowly simmered with indigenous black pepper, is a particularly significant dish for me. This dish is on the verge of extinction alongside the decline in pigeon farming. Factors such as urban migration, shifts in dietary preferences, and diminishing access to local produce have contributed to the fading of such traditional recipes.”
Reminiscing a personal story, Chef Atul further adds, “A particularly poignant memory is tied to the pigeon with papaya and potato dish that my grandmother prepared during our visits to our ancestral village, Sanekuchi in Nalbari. One year during Bihu, upon our arrival, she lamented her inability to cook the dish due to the absence of pigeons. My brother and I were disheartened but resolved not to concede. We devised a plan; lacking funds, we chose to sell some of our homegrown paddy at the local market to secure the needed ingredients. This experience is a testament to how deeply food traditions are interwoven with familial bonds, resourcefulness, and cultural continuity.”
When asked about the old-age family recipes he would want to preserve, the chef remarks, “I preserve numerous family-specific recipes, particularly those from my mother. A remarkable cook, she adhered to the tenets of slow cooking, minimal spice usage, and utmost respect for the raw ingredients. One standout recipe is banana stem cooked with alkaline juice—a cleansing, earthy dish I continue to serve in my restaurant on significant occasions."
Chef Gitika Saikia
Starting her journey in 2014, Gitika Saiki quit her corporate job as a marketing communications professional to become a full-time chef. Since her motto was to take Northeastern cuisine to every part of the country, she started with home pop-ups, and after a year, she stepped out of the comfort of her home and started catering to the larger audience of Mumbai.
After having worked with many restaurants and hotels post-COVID, Gitika actively started home delivery menus, which includes her most-awaited Bihu-special menu. While everyone is aware of the popularly prepared dishes, talking about the lesser-known dishes, Chef Gitika says, “One of the Assame-special condiments made for Bihu is behua, which is similar to wasabi, and is made with both black and white mustard seeds.”
After having worked with many restaurants and hotels post-COVID, Gitika actively started home delivery menus, which includes her most-awaited Bihu-special menu. While everyone is aware of the popularly prepared dishes, talking about the lesser-known dishes, Chef Gitika says, “One of the Assame-special condiments made for Bihu is behua, which is similar to wasabi, and is made with both black and white mustard seeds.”
As for the main dishes, the chef focuses on locally sourced ingredients like duck meat, banana blossom, jute leaves, banana stems, etc. Even as a part of her festive menu, the chef prepares for her venture, Gitika’s PakGhor; some of the time-honoured dishes include Hanh Aru Kol Posola'r Jolokia Bhaji (almost pounded duckmeat with tender banana stem), Murgi Koldil Kolpaat'ot, Baby Potatoes & Smoked Pork, and many more.
“During this month, we make Vedailota, which is catla fish curry in skunk vine, prepared in curry leaves base. As for the Assamese tribal community, we also have red ant eggs, silkworms, and rice wine. On the first Bihu day (Goru Bihu), growing up, we used to pick vegetables from our backyard to celebrate Cow Bihu Day with a dish made with a total of 101 vegetables.” Gitika Saikia concludes by sharing her family recipes.
