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Living in one part of the country with limited travel experiences, we tend to paint a very skewed picture of the other existing cultures. Lack of chance encounters and interactions with these ‘other’ cultures leaves us with little knowledge about them beyond textbooks and the Internet. I, for one, can recall that I hardly had any followers of Islam as batch mates during my graduation days. In fact, if I come to think of it, my entire class was quite a homogenous group. This differs from region to region. For instance, if we move to Mumbai, the Gujaratis, Sindhis and Parsis have a prevalent culture just like the Marathis there. Here in Delhi, we have people from different sects of society that have come and settled here.
Despite that, my chance encounter with Gujaratis happened a few years back. Our newly moved in tenant was a Gujarati. A journalist by profession, she was always on the go. Though we had very few moments of interaction, it was the food that she sent over during the week that brought me closer to their culture. From dhoklas to theplas and khakhras, I tried a variety of Gujarati dishes and snacks during that period. The most vivid memory I have is that of Undhiyu. The bell rang and I was handed a pot. I removed the lid quickly to see that it had a mesh of vegetables in it and the aroma instantly filled the house. That was the first time I tasted this popular Gujarati dish.
A winter delicacy in Gujarati households, Undhiyu is a common affair during this season. The dish derives its name from a Gujarati word, undhu, meaning upside down. The significance of this name can be traced to the original method of preparing this regional dish. In the primitive era when technology wasn’t advanced and urbanization hadn’t taken place, Undhiyu was prepared in earthen pots called matlas. The pot was filled with vegetables and buried underground while the fire from above trickled down through the porous holes of the pot to cook the food. Once ready, the vegetables gave a smoky aroma and flavour as soon as they were taken out of the pot.
This unique technique makes Undhiyu a special delicacy of the Gujarati fare. Not just this, it is the use of fresh vegetables that are grown in the winter season which lend the Undhiyu a distinct taste. While papdi (flat green beans) are intrinsic to the vegetable mix of this dish, there are several other vegetables that used including purple yam, sweet potatoes, brinjal and kalal. These local produces are rich in nutrients and are slow-cooked along with salt and peanut oil.
One thing without which Undhiyu is incomplete are the fenugreek dumplings. The bitter-spicy dumplings are made from gram flour and methi and dunked into the vegetable mixture. The medley of these seasonal vegetables along with a host of spices is best eaten with coriander chutney on the side.
Not only is the dish a specialty during winters but prepared during special occasions like Makar Sakranti too. Colloquially referred to as Uttarayan, the festival is celebrated to welcome the fresh harvest of the season with kites and undhiyu with crispy pooris on the side.
While the traditional method of cooking the dish involves the use of special pots, a lot of people in the cities cook Undhiyu on gas stoves today. Apart from the cooking technique, the way the vegetables are flavoured also differs within the region itself. The strong flavours of garlic dominate the undhiyu in Surat while the Ahemdabadi version has a heavier and spicier take on the one-pot muthiya (dumpling) plus vegetable combo which is in complete contrast to the rustic preparation of villages which is lighter and low on spices and masalas.
From the northern to the southern end of the region, Undhiyu would be laid on your plate in different style, like with mustard oil in Palanpur. The umbadiyo spin-off from Valsad region is an interesting take on the dish where the pot is filled with the same vegetables and sealed with ajwain and several other local varieties of leaves, lending it an appetizing aroma along with the smoky flavour. The fan fare of the dish is so deeply engrained in the culture of the region that 14th January is celebrated as National Undhiyu Day across the state, taking on a cult status.
While Undhiyu holds a special place in the hearts of Gujaratis, here are a few other popular bites from the regional fare that you can try.
1. Dhokla
The steamed cake from Gujarat that it is well-known for, dhokla is soft, spongy and a great snack option.
2. Thepla
A breakfast staple in the region, they are thin and flattened parathas that can be eaten with pickle.
3. Khakhra
Yet another breakfast cum snack option, khakhras are thin, crispy and crunchy rotis made from bajra, methi and many other ingredients.
