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It was 6 AM, and we were at the famous fish market in Mangalore to grab the fresh morning catch. The ladies ran all the shops at the Urwa fish market, and with much diligence, they kept persuading us to buy their fresh bounty from the sea. There were ‘Bangude’ (Mackerel), ‘Nang’ (Sole fish), ‘Kane’ (Ladyfish), ‘Boothai’ (Sardine), ‘Bolenjir’ (Silverfish), ‘Yetti’ (Prawns), ‘Mandeli’ (Anchovies), ‘Maanji’ (Pomfret), ‘Koddai’ (Croaker fish), ‘Bandase’ (Squid), and many other unique varieties of fishes.
Being born and brought up in a land distant from the sea, New Delhi, the sight was astonishing for me. Fresh seafood was offered at a price one could never imagine in any other non-coastal city. Among the variety of seafood being sold, at 500 rupees per kg, the prized possession was the ‘Anjal’ (Indo-Pacific King Mackerel), also known as the Kingfish. Almost everybody was buying ‘Anjal’. After all, it was a good bargain at that price.
I wondered how many fish are cooked daily in Mangalore, as most people love eating seafood at least once a day. And with that intriguing thought, we packed a few kilograms of ‘Bangude’ and a few kilograms of ‘Anjal’ for our afternoon feast. After an enriching experience, we went back home and started cooking the fish I eagerly looked forward to - the Anjal.
My Auntie, Mrs Subbalakshmi Mallya, was born and brought up in Kerala. However, she has been living in Mangalore for the past 40 years. She is not just a fish lover but also a cook par excellence. Especially the regional cuisines of ‘Dakshin Kannada; and the dishes predominantly cooked in her community (Gaud Saraswat Brahmans). She was also happy and excited as she approved of the treasure we had brought.
Home-Cooked Anjal
Anjal was sliced and marinated in a paste of chillies, turmeric, salt, and garlic. And after about 20 minutes, she coated it in a mix of Rava (semolina) and rice flour and deep-fried it. Relatively simple preparation; however, the delicious taste and the city-wide preference for Anjal can be ascertained in the first bite of the crispy fried and flaky fish. With just a single central bone, Anjal is easy to eat and has no smell making it a favoured fish for adults and kids alike. I did not leave this chance to eat this delicious fish to my heart’s content. And from then on, I made sure every restaurant I visited for a seafood meal, I did not miss out on trying Rava fried or tawa-fried Anjal.
Anjal Cooked At Restaurants
Mangalore is known for some of the most fantastic seafood restaurants across India. A standard and staple lunch at a Mangalore restaurant is rice and fish curry served on a banana leaf. There is always one ‘Palya’ (Vegetable), and sometimes pickle is served too. However, the highlight is always the fish option to enjoy with this classic meal. The availability of a wide variety makes dining in Mangalore such a fantastic experience. Giri Manja’s, Machali, and Narayana Hotel are considered the culinary trinity of seafood restaurants in Mangalore. Each of these restaurants has a huge fan following, and there is a packed house every day for lunch. However, it’s no surprise that almost everyone orders Anjal fish along with the meal. At Giri Manja’s, the city’s most famous seafood restaurant, the tawa fried Anjal is spicy and coated in an irresistible masala, making this creamy flaky fish a must-try.
Machali, another legendary restaurant in Mangalore, probably sells the maximum Anjals in a day. A large restaurant, which is open for lunch and dinner, is one of the most sought-after places to enjoy the delicious fish preparation of Mangalore. Narayana hotel is another famous old restaurant in Mangalore, serving fresh seafood. However, at Sridevi hotel, where I had one of the best meals of the trip; the reason was the quality of Anjal fish served at Sridevi hotel. Being a smaller restaurant, probably the attention to detail is greater. However, the texture of the Anjal fish and the spicy, peppery taste won my heart and made me a big fan of Anjal fish.
Another interesting method of Preparing Anjal fish is to cook it wrapped in Banana leaves. Anjal fish is marinated in salt and green chilli paste before being wrapped and then cooked on the tawa. This unique preparation is called ‘Upamunchi’ (Salt and Chilli), bringing out the best flavour of this delicious fish variety.
On most menus, Anjal fish is the most expensive, yet is the most ordered fish; the critical reason is the firm, flaky texture and the single central bone, making it easy to eat. However, Anjal fish is also one of the healthiest fish with lots of vitamins and omega - 3 fatty acids; it would be fair to call Anjal fish the super fish of the Indian coast.
Travelling across the Southwestern coast of India, you can find this fish easily. If you are in Goa, ask for ‘Iswon’; if you are in Kerala, ask for ‘Ayakoora’ or ‘Neymeen’; in Maharashtra, it’s called ‘Surmai’, and in Tamil Nadu, it's called ‘Vanjaram’. And although this variety of Kingfish is popular in most states where it is available, in Mangalore, Udupi, and the rest of Dakshin Kannada, Anjal fish is the first love of seafood lovers.
After having many memorable meals in restaurants and home kitchens of the ‘Tulu Nadu’ region, I have become a big fan of this fish. And as I move forward in my journey to another fish-loving state, Kerala, I will undoubtedly explore how they cook this delicious fish worth falling in love with, Anjal.
Sidharth Bhan Gupta, Founder of 361 Degrees Hospitality, is a Hospitality / Food and Beverage / Restaurant Consultant, Travelling across India on a Cultural and Culinary Exploration.
