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The sour delicacies of Odia cuisine are some of its best-kept secrets. In case you didn’t know, southern Odisha shares some boundaries with Andhra Pradesh and Odia food also has a connection with Telugu food, the latter being noted for its sour-spicy profile. Naturally, certain Odia and Andhra foods share a flavour palate. The Odia machcha ambila, for instance, may taste quite similar to the Andhra chepala, not just because they’re both fish stews but because of the usage of spices.
Also Read: Odia Cuisine: Rich Legacy, Yet Obscure
Ambila is a tangy, spiced soup, often prepared with seasonal vegetables, and is a testament to the rich culinary heritage of the region. With a history that dates back centuries, Ambila is more than just a dish; it is a reflection of the cultural and agricultural bounty of Odisha. The primary source of tanginess in Ambila is tamarind. Tamarind pulp is soaked in water, and the juice extracted is the base of the soup. In some variations, green mango or dried mango powder (which is also known as amchur) can be used as a substitute for tamarind.
Another core component of this story is seasonal vegetables. From drumsticks, pumpkin, eggplant and sweet potatoes to radish, and tomatoes, this stew features small, cut pieces of tender seasonal veggies. “One of the reasons why ambila is so popular during summer and monsoon is its recipe which calls for local seasonal produce; it’s a great way to consume different kind of local vegetables at one go and it’s easy to make. This stew has a distinct tanginess so you can also use bitters and raw mangoes, to develop different flavours, it’s always a great option for lunch,” says Niharika Poddar, a home chef based in Bhubaneswar.
The preparation of Ambila begins with soaking tamarind in warm water and extracting its juice. The vegetables are then added to the tamarind water and cooked until they are soft. The spice paste used in the stew is prepared using mustard seeds, cumin seeds, and green chillies, which is then added to the simmering vegetables. The dish is seasoned with turmeric, salt, and jaggery. Finally, a tempering of mustard seeds, cumin seeds, and dry red chillies in hot oil is added to the Ambila, which is then left to simmer for a few more minutes to allow the flavours to meld together.
The sour dishes of Odia cuisine
Ambila is not the only sour number which is popular in Odia cuisine. Much like Bengali cuisine, Odia cuisine also has a fair share of sour dishes made with seasonal produce, like green mangoes, curd, tomatoes, starfruit etc. Some recipes of ambila also call for certain spice blends, which are common in several east-Indian curries and gravies.
Ambila has many versions, but much like kanji, most versions rely on a staple souring agent, like tamarind. However, there are some regional differences between different kinds of ambila; for instance, the machcha ambila is popular in coastal parts and they also tend to feature jaggery to balance the tanginess of tamarinds and the fish isn’t marinated since it uses a heavy dose of spices and chilli.
“Ambila gravies are usually very thin, it’s easier to pack a concentrated punch of flavours in these gravies. Fish ambila can be easily made with rohu or catla and the tamarind-turmeric blend works really well with the chillies and lime, it’s a perfect monsoon recipe,” shares Poddar.
In the southern parts of Odisha, Ambila is often spicier, with a generous use of green chilies and mustard paste. The southern variation also tends to be thicker, almost like a stew, and is often enjoyed with rice or pakhala. In the tribal regions of Odisha, Ambila is made with locally foraged greens and tubers and often includes taro.
Some of the other sour delicacies in Odia cuisine are tomato khatta which is a sweet and sour chutney made with ripe tomatoes, jaggery, and tamarind, and is flavored with panch phoron (a five-spice blend) and dry red chilies. Dahi Baigana is another sour delicacy which combines the tanginess of yogurt with fried eggplant, while Karamanga Khatta uses seasonal starfruit which is known for its sweet and sour properties.
