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Bihar is a state where great men like Mahavir and Buddha, as well as scholars like Chanakya and Aryabhata, were born. It is a region once ruled by the great Ashoka and Sher Shah Suri. And there is no better way to learn about a region's cultural significance than to delve deeply into its culinary past. There are some particular treats that come to mind when we think of the rich Bihari cuisine. However, there is much more.
Bihar is significant in the nation’s history. It has not only witnessed the rise and fall of numerous kingdoms and dynasties but is also known to have taught democracy to the world. Ramayan and Mahabharat also make mention of Bihar’s Magadh, Ang, Videh, and Mithila. It is the same place where Jainism and Buddhism were born. Did you know that the name ‘Bihar’ originated from the Buddhist religion only? Dr. Pushpesh Panth, a food historian and author, believes that Bihar's name derives from the region's abundance of Buddhist monasteries. And it is quite evident that we can’t talk about Bihar without talking about Buddhism.
The region's eating practices were about to change when Buddhism and Jainism began to spread in the fifth century. Even today, so many Buddhist monks reside in Bihar and follow a very simple lifestyle. They depend upon the alms, or ‘bhiksha’, received from other people. If there is a particular food that can signify monkhood, it is the simple and soothing black-eyed bean, also known as 'lobhiya'. Made with the simplest of ingredients like black-eyed beans, tomato, onion, chili powder, and coriander, this curry is what the Buddhist monks in Bihar prepare and eat. They also make red spinach sabzi, commonly known as ‘laal saag, and kheer. If some legends are to be believed, Gautam Buddha attained enlightenment after having kheer. The charm of kheer is never going to fade away, isn’t it?
Image: Kheer
While one section of Bihar depends on alms, the common man here relies more on local produce. Talking about the quite popular ‘litti-chokha, which is the soul food of Bihar, is made up of wheat and gram flour dough that is cooked over hot coals. Served with a flavourful aloo chokha, litti looks like Rajasthan’s bati but is entirely different in taste. From being a common man’s food to a dish Bihar got recognised for, ‘litti-chokha’ has travelled a long way. But did you know that this wholesome meal was not always like this but evolved over time? Chokha served with litti has potatoes as the key ingredient, but these potatoes were introduced to India by the Portuguese somewhere around the 16th century. However, the mention of yam, sweet potato, etc. could be found in ancient Ayurvedic books, and these ingredients were probably used to make the chokha long before the Portuguese came to India.
Image: Litti chokha
If you are familiar with Bihari cuisine in general, you know what sattu is. Bihar is a place where heatwaves and hot breezes trouble people for nearly seven to eight months. And sattu, a protein rich flour, works as a shield for the people in Bihar. Assumed to be around for over 1000 years old, sattu is simple and extremely nutritious. It is also believed that sattu used to be a go-to food for the warriors who used to guard the monasteries. From sattu ka paani to parathas, sattu is consumed in Bihar in multiple ways. Among other vegetables that help protect the common man from heatwaves is bottle gourd, or lauki, which is used in main courses as well as raitas. Just like sattu, makhana (foxtail nuts) are also extensively consumed in the region. The consumption of lotus seeds, flowers, and stems is believed to have been there since the Indus Valley Civilization and finds mention in the Yajurveda as well.
While Jainism and Buddhism emphasized vegetarianism, the influence of Islamic culture gave birth to the legendary ‘Bihari kebab'. While talking about this, Chef Anvesh Gupta, a chef from Bhilai and an expert in Bihari cuisine, said that Bihari kebab is a special kebab variety made with layers of meat wrapped around a skewer and roasted with ghee added at frequent intervals. Gupta added that this kebab probably gained fame during the rule of Sher Shah Suri of the Sur Empire. But there are some dishes that have been eaten in the state even before Sher Shah Suri’s rule. Gupta told that when Bihar was under the Delhi sultanate, a gosht (mutton) dish named ‘Taash’ was quite popular in Champaran and nearby areas. Cooked in ghee, this dish was a common delight among the zamindars and rich classes. There is also a unique and special dessert said to have originated in Bihar, i.e., Ande ka halwa. Yes, you read that right! Made with eggs, sugar, ghee, almonds, and saffron, this egg dessert is cooked with love and patience.
Image: Bihari Kebab
Another crucial segment of Bihari cuisine consists of the food consumed by Maithil brahmins, who, unlike other sections of brahmins, consume fish. Sangeeta Singh, a teacher and a home cook, said that regions like Bengal, Bihar, Odisha, etc., have fish as an essential part of their cuisine. The people in this region make a special fish dish using Rohu fish and other spices. Eggplant, or brinjal, is also commonly consumed by the Maithil Brahmins. Another humble dish that Maithil Brahmins consume to protect themselves from the heat’s wrath is 'dahi-chura'. Sangeeta says that dahi-chura is considered one of the healthiest breakfasts, keeping in view the climatic conditions. "Flat rice topped with curd is light and nutritious," she added.
While the common people protected their culture, the royal families in Bihar too have kept alive their cultural legacy. Because of British influence, the Hathwa royal family used to bake and enjoy cabbage as a part of their royal menu. They traditionally make cabbage pulao, made with a plethora of roasted spices and consumed especially during the winter. Another famous dish from this royal family that has been ruling the world is 'thekua'. Thekua also known as khabauni or khajuria, it is a dry sweet made of wheat flour and is quite popular during the Chhat Puja. This dry sweet is not confined just to the royal menu but has made its way to the common man’s kitchen.
Image: Thekua
From litti chokha to Bihari kebab, from laal saag ki sabji to ande ka halwa, Bihari food signifies simplicity, versatility, and a sense of wonderment. This is the story of food in Bihar!
