If you have ever tasted the rich, chewy sweetness of Sohan Halwa, you already know it is one of the most famous desserts all over the Indian subcontinent. But perhaps few know that the exclusiveness of its texture and flavour depends upon Sanmak.I was recently surprised to discover Sanmak, also known as angoori atta or wheat germ, while reading Degh To Dasarkhwan by Tarana Husain Khan. This lesser-known flour is made from germinated wheat and forms the very reason Sohan Halwa is what it is: rich, dripping in ghee, and with a rather peculiar bite to it. Over the years, however, the recipe has undergone some changes, where certain elements have replaced the original wheat germ flour, like semolina, giving the sweet a different texture and taste. Today, let's explore the traditional way of making Sohan Halwa with Sanmak and how you can try it at home.

What is the Sanmak Flour? 

Sanmak flour, also known as angoori atta, is prepared from sprouted wheat. Wheat grains are first allowed to sprout for 3-4 days. After that, the germinated grains are spread out in the sun to dry and crispen, and then they are ground into fine flour. The entire process is quite laborious; nonetheless, it produces a nutritious flour used conventionally in sweet treats like Sohan Halwa. 

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This sweet confection is a favourite in India and Pakistan, and the kind of flour one uses vastly affects the final product in terms of taste, texture, and richness. Sanmak is no exception, as it absorbs large amounts of ghee to give Sohan Halwa that chewy, soft, yet slightly crunchy texture. Yet, despite being this very vital component, Sanmak has been disappearing from modern recipes and has been replaced by semolina or maida-refined flour-which has altered the character of the halwa altogether. 

Traditionally, How Was Sohan Halwa Made? 

According to Degh To Dasarkhwan, Sohan Halwa was made by a mixture of Sanmak and maida in the past. In fact, the use of semolina in its modern recipes has really altered the halwa's texture, which comes out crumby and less integrated as compared to the original. Traditionally, the halwa was finer with a subtler sweetness and no greasy aftertaste so artificial in most of its modern variants. 

The use of Sanmak allowed the halwa to soak in the ghee and gave it a very rich, smooth consistency. Unlike today's halwa, which sometimes feels grainy owing to the semolina used in it, this one was melt-in-the-mouth. High ghee content combined with the wheat germ gave this sweet a well-rounded flavour, while the sugar did not overpower the other ingredients. Moreover, the original recipe had a higher ratio of ghee to flour, which helped to keep the halwa moist and full of flavour for days. 

How to Make Sohan Halwa at Home 

If you are eager to try the traditional manner of making Sohan Halwa using Sanmak, here's a simple recipe for you to make it at home. 

Ingredients: 

½ kg Sanmak flour (or wheat germ)  

½ kg Sugar 

¼ kg Almonds 

½ kg Ghee (or as per requirement) 

1 cup Milk

1 tsp Saffron  

1 tsp Pistachios  

5-6 Raisins 

5-6 Cashews 

50 grams Green cardamom

Method:

Prepare the flour

Heat a pan over a medium heat. When the pan gets heated then adds ghee to it. Let the ghee melt. After that add Sanmak flour to it and fry the flour in the ghee such that an aromatic smell comes out of it and the colour of flour changes to golden brown in colour. This step is quite critical because, at this particular point, the nutty smell of the flour would start coming out. 

Prepare sugar syrup

Heat 1 litre of water in a different pan, until it's hot. Add sugar and cook it till you get the one-string consistency. That is when you take a small drop between your fingers and stretch it, it must result in one thread. 

Mix flour and syrup

Now, add the fried flour to the sugar syrup and ensure you stir briskly to avoid lumps. The heat should be low while you mix. 

Add ghee 

Add more ghee little by little to the mixture while stirring. The ghee gets absorbed into the flour mixture, giving it that type of texture. Continue cooking until the halwa thickens up and then starts releasing ghee from the sides. 

Incorporate nuts and flavouring 

Once it has reached the desired consistency, add the almonds, pistachios, raisins, cashews, and saffron. Mix well to evenly distribute nuts and flavours in the halwa.  

Spread and cool 

Off the heat, transfer the halwa mixture to a greased tray. Spread well and let it cool. Allow it to cool, then cut the halwa into small squares or desired shapes. 

Garnish and serve

Garnish with almonds, pistachios, and cardamom for added richness. Your Sohan Halwa is now ready to serve, traditionally!