The rainy, misty Coorg, or Kodagu, is a picturesque region in the Western Ghats of Karnataka, known for its lush landscapes, coffee plantations, and unique culture. If you are driving from Bengaluru to Coorg or Mysuru to Coorg, begin your culinary holiday early. The veg meal at RRR with a side order or hot, crispy, Chicken 65 is highly recommended. Once you get to Coorg you will be in food heaven.
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The culinary traditions of Coorg are deeply rooted in the region's geography and history. Kodava cuisine, as it’s known, features rich, earthy flavours with a strong emphasis on locally available ingredients such as rice, forest produce, meats, and spices. The cuisine also reflects the Coorg people’s love for robust, hearty dishes that are full of flavour and yet simple.
The use of local ingredients such as kachampuli, a unique souring agent, and rice comes from the region’s agrarian roots. Forest produce plays a significant role, especially during the monsoon season, when the lush surroundings offer an abundance of fresh ingredients. Bamboo shoots, mushrooms, and various greens are incorporated into meals, reflecting the deep connection between the Kodava people and their natural environment.
Meals are often hearty, focusing on slow-cooked curries and accompaniments that complement the spicy, rich gravies. The cuisine is also deeply tied to local traditions, with special dishes prepared for festivals and celebrations. They say, the best way to enjoy Coorgi food is to get yourselves invited to a Coorgi wedding. However, that may not be possible for everyone.
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In Madikeri a local eatery called Coorg Cuisine located strategically near the main bus stand serves delicious local meals. While there are coffee plantations scattered throughout the region and a visit to the plantations is a must, it's surprising that there aren’t too many coffee shops here. Big Cup, a coffee shop in Madikeri serves up some good ones. Try the one called Coorgi Filter Coffee. If you are looking to buy coffee though lookup Ganesh Coffee in the main market in Madikeri.
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Coorg is known for good quality spices and there are shops selling these everywhere in the market. Be careful and go with a recommended one especially if you are not the best judge of quality.
An important part of the cuisine of Coorg that is often overlooked, is the delicious Tibetan fare at Kushalnagar, available near the monastery. Try the Laphing a spicy cold plain flour noodle dish apart from the momos and the Thukpa. As far as traditional Coorgi dishes go, here are the ones you absolutely can’t miss.
Pandi Curry (Coorg Pork Curry)
Pandi Curry is arguably the most famous dish from Coorg and a signature dish of the Kodava people. It is a slow-cooked pork curry rich in spices, with a dark, intense gravy. What makes Pandi Curry unique is the use of kachampuli, a souring agent made from a local fruit, similar to tamarind. Kachampuli adds a distinct tangy flavour that balances the richness of the pork. The pork is typically cooked with a blend of roasted spices such as pepper, cumin, coriander, and mustard, which give the dish its deep, earthy flavour.
The pork is slow-cooked until it becomes tender, allowing the spices and kachampuli to permeate the meat. Pandi Curry is usually served with akki rotti (rice roti) or kadambuttu (steamed rice balls). Its intense flavours make it a popular choice at family gatherings and special occasions in Coorg.
Kadambuttu (Steamed Rice Balls)
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Kadambuttu is a staple in Coorg and is often served meat curries, especially Pandi Curry. These steamed rice dumplings are made from broken rice that is cooked and shaped into small, round balls. The preparation is simple, but it requires the right texture—soft yet firm enough to hold its shape.
Kadambuttu is made by boiling water and adding ground rice flour while stirring continuously until it thickens. The mixture is then rolled into balls and steamed until they are firm. Kadambuttu’s mild, neutral taste makes it the perfect complement to the spicy, rich curries of Coorg, acting as a soft, comforting base to soak up the flavours of the curry.
Koli Curry (Coorg Chicken Curry)
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Koli Curry, or Coorg-style chicken curry, is another popular dish from this region. It is typically made with country chicken, which has a firmer texture and richer flavour compared to farm-raised chicken. The curry is cooked with a blend of local spices, including freshly ground coriander, cumin, and pepper, along with ginger and garlic. Coconut is often used in the curry, either as grated coconut or coconut milk, adding a creamy richness to the dish. Like Pandi Curry, Koli Curry also uses kachampuli as a souring agent, which gives the dish a tangy edge. This rich and flavourful chicken curry is commonly paired with akki rotti, rice, or kadambuttu.
Noolputtu (Rice Noodles)
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Noolputtu, also known as string hoppers or noolappam, is a traditional Coorg breakfast dish made from rice flour. These delicate, lacy rice noodles are steamed and served with curries or coconut milk. To make noolputtu, rice flour is kneaded into a dough, pressed through a noodle maker, and then steamed until cooked. Noolputtu is light and slightly chewy, making it a versatile dish that pairs well with both sweet and savory accompaniments. It is often served with koli curry or a simple coconut chutney. This dish is a regular feature in Coorg households for breakfast or dinner.
Baimbale Curry (Bamboo Shoot Curry)
Baimbale Curry is a seasonal dish made from fresh bamboo shoots, which are abundant in the forests of Coorg. Bamboo shoots are tender and have a slightly crunchy texture. They are usually cooked in a light, mildly spiced curry, often with a coconut-based gravy. The bamboo shoots are first soaked to remove their natural bitterness and then cooked with a blend of spices such as mustard seeds, turmeric, and chilli. The curry is usually light and fragrant, allowing the natural taste of the bamboo shoots to shine through. Baimbale Curry is often served with steamed rice or akki rotti and is a favorite during the monsoon season when fresh bamboo shoots are available.
Akki Rotti (Rice Roti)
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Akki Rotti is a popular flatbread made from rice flour, commonly eaten in Coorg. It is soft, slightly chewy, and often flavoured with ingredients like cumin seeds, green chillies, and coriander leaves. To make akki rotti, rice flour is mixed with water to form a dough, which is then flattened into thin discs and cooked on a hot griddle. This versatile roti can be enjoyed with a variety of curries, from chicken and pork to vegetarian options like bamboo shoot curry or lentil dishes. Akki Rotti is not only a breakfast staple but also a regular part of lunch and dinner in many Coorg homes. Its simplicity and adaptability make it a beloved dish that pairs well with the bold flavours of Kodava cuisine.