IN HYDERABAD, where multiple restaurants open every single day, how does one inject curiosity into the culinary scene? By starting something new and refreshing, of course! Last week’s launch of Virat Kohli’s One8 Commune added a touch of celebrity chutzpah to the dining-out scene in the city, which was in danger of becoming, well, dangerously tedious!
Spread over 4000 sq ft, it makes its debut in the city after successful outlets in Delhi, Mumbai, and Bengaluru, amongst others, and gets its location right, situated in the heart of the IT hub, Hitech City.
The name One8 originates from Kohli’s jersey number, 18, which is deeply meaningful to him both personally and professionally. Commune suggests a sense of togetherness and collective experiences, reflecting Kohli’s goal of establishing places where people can meet, savour delicious food, and create enduring memories.
The interiors by Studio Renesa follow a similar layout as with the other outlets. A jersey signed by Kohli flanks the entrance (and is already a favourite with the selfie-seeking crowd), and the spacious 200-seater restaurant is divided into various sections both indoors and outdoors.
Done up in a muted colour palette, with multiple seating options (including ergonomic alternatives for those who need them), the interiors are warm and snug. The generous use of rattan gives it a bohemian vibe, while the sports memorabilia subtly integrated into the decor pays homage to Kohli’s illustrious cricket career without overwhelming the space.
The outdoor seating area is a great spot to unwind with a tipple in the evenings, especially when live bands take over during the weekends. The 17-foot bar counter is home to mixologist Swapnil Palkar and serves an assortment of interesting drinks.
A GLOBAL PERSPECTIVE
Serving a smattering of different cuisines, the restaurant usually has a similar menu across its outlets but tweaks dishes slightly, as a nod to the city it is based in. Chef Agnib Mudi explains, “We serve a mix of modern contemporary global cuisine with a selection of regional favourites. There is a lot of earthiness to our dishes.”
The chef also undertook a pilgrimage to Hyderabad’s time-honoured haunts, including the legendary Shadab and Shah Ghouse, to seek inspiration from the local palette — and palate! The result is an excellent assortment of dishes with regional influences, including an excellent Biryani and some delicious Khatti Dal alongside international dishes.
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We started our gastronomic journey with the tried and tested Mushroom Googly Dim Sum (a Kohli favourite) that is served with assorted wild mushrooms, cream cheese, vegetarian broth, and truffle oil, which is an excellent start and a great marriage of different flavours (including beetroot) successfully brought together.
Byadagi Mirch Paneer, which uses the famous Karnataka chilli, is an excellent option with its varied ingredients (curry leaf, green chilli, and onion tomato chutney) to great effect. For those who like to experiment with food, the Beetroot Galouti with methi thepla, mint chutney, and onion pickle is a smorgasbord of flavours that simply begs to be devoured within moments.
The signature Black Chicken, inspired by Assamese cuisine, is something one should not miss. The black sesame marinade gives it a unique aftertaste, making it an instant hit with foodies. Other interesting options include the avocado flatbread and the fabulous Kasundi Fish Tikka (that will make its way right into Bengalis’ hearts, given its mustard marinade).
Chef Agnib states, “We serve food that is not currently made in Hyderabad. We take extensive care to ensure that our food appeals to people while remaining unique. For example, the chilli paste in Byadagi Mirch Paneer is fermented for three days to achieve the right consistency, and cream cheese is made daily.”
A MELTING POT OF FLAVOURS
Our main course started with a surprise. While many in Hyderabad would be scandalised by the very thought of Soya Haleem, a vegetarian cousin of the famous Hyderabadi Haleem, One8 Commune springs a surprise with its serving. Made from hand-minced soya keema cooked with yellow chillies, onions, and a generous dollop of ghee, this is a fantastic dish, though non-vegetarians can scoff. Served with a tasty kulcha, it packs the punch of a Kohli sixer!
The signature Bamboo Biryani is another winner. Try the Awadhi chicken version with its slow-cooked basmati rice and spices, which elevates the Hyderabadi staple to a higher level. It is served aesthetically too, making great content for your Instagram reels. Other must-try dishes include Mutton Rogan Josh (the spicy tomato gravy is a revelation), the Old Delhi Chicken Korma, or specials ranging from Nasi Goreng to pastas and pizzas.
In a culinary scene that is packed with options, how does this eatery make its mark? It is a fusion of different ingredients and styles, be it the raw mango paste in Lime Chilli Pickled Prawns or the tamarind chutney in the Fruit Chaat. For a sweet ending, look no further than the Ferrero Rocher log, which is made of some of the most delicious hazelnut mousse this writer has ever tasted. But if dil maange more, there is the Tiramisu Cornetto — lip-smackingly delicious with an aftertaste of coffee.
In a city bustling with new dining spots, One8 Commune stands out with its fusion of global and local flavours, warm ambience, and unique touches. With great options, it gives you enough value for your hard-earned money and great images for your Instagram feed. It’s a place worth returning to for its innovative menu and inviting atmosphere.
At The Loft, Salarpuria Sattva Knowledge City, Hitec City, Hyderabad