Truly 'Labra'jawab: An Ode To A Durga Puja Staple

Editor's Note: This piece is crafted as a logbook entry from a Bengali household, capturing the essence of labra — a beloved dish associated with Durga Puja. The logbook format allows us to delve into the dish's rich cultural heritage, its evolution over time, and its communal significance during the festival. Through this entry, we invite readers to appreciate the dish — and the spirit of togetherness it embodies.

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Aswin, 30, 1429*

As the festival of Durga Puja approaches, the kitchen of the thakur bari is abuzz with anticipation. It is time to prepare the dish known as labra, a vibrant medley of seasonal vegetables. Labra holds a special place in the hearts of the household, signifying both the joy of the festive season and our deep-rooted culinary heritage.

At Its Roots...

The origins of labra can be traced back to the ancient practices of utilising local produce. Traditionally, this dish emerged during the changing seasons, reflecting the natural bounty of the land. Made from a delightful assortment of shobji (vegetables) such as potatoes, sweet potatoes, broad beans, brinjal and shak (greens), labra embodies simplicity and sustenance.

Historically, it was during the gatherings of the shakti puja that families would prepare labra, allowing the ingredients to shine. It became a symbol of mahashakti, celebrating the spirit of the goddess while honouring the earth’s generosity.

Recipe Raga

Ancient Beginnings (16th Century): In those early days, labra was a reflection of the agricultural practices prevalent in rural Bengal. Villagers would gather the freshest shobji from their kitchen gardens, creating a dish that was nourishing and hearty. With minimal spices and no frills, the dish was a testament to the resourcefulness of our ancestors.

Cultural Influences (19th Century): As trade expanded and foreign influences permeated our culinary landscape, the variety of vegetables and spices incorporated into labra increased. Ingredients like haldi (turmeric) and jeera (cumin) found their way into the pot, enhancing the flavours while retaining the dish’s humble roots.

Modern Adaptations (21st Century): In contemporary kitchens, labra has seen a renaissance, with families embracing organic produce and sustainable cooking practices. The dish remains a cherished offering during festivals, representing a balance of health and tradition.

Labra By Another Name...?

It is essential to understand how labra differs from other vegetable preparations that grace the festival table.

Shobji Bhaja (Fried Vegetables): Unlike labra, which is a mixed vegetable (usually a combination of seasonal produce) stewed until soft and succulent, shobji bhaja involves individual vegetables, such as eggplant or potatoes, being lightly fried in mustard oil. This preparation showcases the crispness of each vegetable, offering a contrasting texture to the soft, stewed labra.

Chorchori (Mixed Vegetable Curry): Similar to labra, chorchori also combines various vegetables; however, it is typically cooked with a spicier, more complex seasoning. Some families also use onion and garlic in their chorchori. Labra, instead, makes for a purer expression of the vegetables’ natural flavours, particularly in the context of the puja.

There are other versions too such as ghonto, chhyachda, dalna etc with varying ingredients, tempering and consistency. The uniqueness of each dish lies in the precise way the vegetables are cut and the specific timing at which they are added during preparation.

Culinary Connections

As the pot simmers, the aromas wafting through the thakur bari evoke cherished memories. After all, labra is at the heart of a traditional Bengali thali, harmonising beautifully with khichuri, aam er chutney (mango chutney) and papad. The combination of textures — the soft, comforting khichuri and the crunchy, spiced shobji — creates an inviting meal that nourishes body and soul.

Stories are exchanged as families gather to share the meal, each bite resonating with the warmth of togetherness. The preparation of labra is a communal affair, involving each member of the household, from the youngest to the oldest. This collaboration is what makes labra a celebrated dish during Durga Puja, reinforcing bonds of love and camaraderie.

Preserving Tradition

In closing, this logbook entry serves as a reminder that beyond a recipe, labra is a cherished vessel of our heritage. It embodies the principles of sustainability and respect for nature that our ancestors held dear. By continuing to honour this dish, the legacy of labra will thrive for generations to come.

May this logbook serve as a beacon for future cooks and households, preserving the art of preparing labra and keeping the spirit of community alive.

*Corresponds to October 13, 2022, in the Gregorian calendar.