What makes The Quarter unique in the manner that most other Mumbai restaurants might overlook, is the sense of creating a dining space that is intimate and lively. Currently operating with two functional sections opposed to the four that previously constituted the restaurant, Nico Goghavala’s space welcomes anyone who wants to kick back and take things slow in a bustling city. As guests revel in the delightful sounds of jazz performances, savouring the restaurant's signature dishes like their Napolitano pizzas and pasta, is something you might enjoy as a cumulative experience.
“What we have done with The Quarter in its new avatar is essentially trying to keep what we were loved for, and evolved with the idea. People can just walk in and hang at the bar or grab a table. The café and wine bar have turned into a beautiful cocktail bar and the jazz club is a more versatile space that works beautifully for both live music as well as other events throughout the day,” Nico elaborates when asked about what’s different now about the space, compared to what it was before the pandemic.
With a cocktail menu and two new spaces soon to be added in, diners at The Quarter can feel free to go up to the highly talented bartender with their preferences and get a crisp, well-balanced drink in exchange. Our cocktail of choice, made with fresh Kinnow oranges, basil and tequila seemed to go down easy at first, but soon enough reveal their potency. The heady buzz, punctuated by a delicious classic grilled cheese sandwich stuffed with leeks, was a solid follow-up snack to keep the spirits up.
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Even in the midst of delicious music and food, it can be hard to shake off the feeling of being in a beautiful heritage space while breaking bread. After all, sharing premises with the Royal Opera House is no ordinary feat. Nico mentions that being there is a privilege and elaborates saying, “We have done a lot to help weave the history here into every experience. The blend of the contemporary space and being able to sit out in the al fresco spot looking out at a 100 year old Opera House is truly an experience in this city.”
In quick succession to the sandwich, arrived a Napolitano-style mushroom pizza, bursting with the umami flavours one would typically expect off of a fungi pie. While the service was rusty, hopefully about to pick up in the next few weeks, conscious care has been taken to not get too adventurous with the menu that Nico defines as ‘timeless classics’. “Farm-to-table, no gimmicks are some of the terms that describe the food philosophy by which we live by. It allows us to build a strong foundation up from which we can experiment further. Our definition of experimentation is not to turn a turnip into a foam or to create fusion food, it’s a constant desire to find the most amazing local ingredients that we can get our hands on and try and serve it in the cleanest way possible.”
True to this, The Quarter pulls of simple things extremely well. The cacio e pepe pasta, burst with the freshness from the handmade noodles, a whisper of garlic and generous smattering of black pepper and parmesan cheese. Perhaps one of the most memorable plates to have produced by the kitchen, Nico hopes to build upon what’s already on offer for diners to sample. “I have a new love for the pita pockets and have some plans to truly make them unique. My current favourite on the menu though is the pickled aubergine with yogurt; that with some fresh bread straight out of the oven and you’re in heaven,” he signs off.