Around a decade or more back, a shift happened across world-class restaurants that has now culminated in quite a fashionable trend in restaurant circles. Chef’s tables had already emerged globally as a niche, luxurious and engaging event that only a select few got a chance to experience. Chefs got the opportunity to talk about not only the dishes they cooked but also the ingredients they sourced and the methods they applied in their commercial kitchens. And then, the chef’s table concept emerged from that one table in or around the kitchen area to the dining space at restaurants, where today, anybody who has access can get the same experience of luxury food.
Over the last decade, chef’s tables have become a staple not only globally but also in India. From Prateek Sadhu and Avinash Martins’ farm-to-table experiences to special Michelin-starred events, chef’s tables are now set up across most fine-dining restaurants in India—so much so that gourmands are now looking for new concepts that add to this experience. And that’s where the unique chef’s table by Chef Divyanshi Patel, Executive Chef, The Astor Goa, comes in.
At Deck 88, Chef Divyanshi is exploring a whole new twist on the classic chef’s table. While classic chef’s tables are about a chef’s signature dishes and the core ingredients they love to source and celebrate, Chef Divyanshi’s take is to personalise the experience as per the gourmand diner’s life, journeys and more. Here’s what you need to know about this unique chef’s table experience at The Astor, Goa.
Coming Up With The Concept: A Six-Month Journey To Deeper Conversations
Chef Divyanshi Patel, who grew up in the small town of Satana, Madhya Pradesh, reveals that this unique chef’s table idea was not one that she came upon suddenly in a moment of inspiration. On the contrary, the concept took more than six months to just develop into the shape it is in now.
“While we were doing our pre-opening phase, the owners of the hotel, who are very F&B driven, were often staying with us here,” she says. “We had six months to develop a menu and we tested 180 dishes. During those six months of testing, we first did plated menus so that everyone could write their individual feedback for each dish. So, we used to do test menus every alternative day with different sets of diners to understand the subjectivity of the palates better.”
Like most classically trained chefs, Chef Divyanshi started off by making tasting menus based on her own choices, focusing on what she wanted to present rather than what the diners wanted to eat. “Slowly, I started asking the owners if I could just talk to the diners before the meal,” she explains.
The Process Of Cultural Exchange And Conversions To Plates
This simple pre-event idea of speaking to diners before setting up the unique chef’s table has now turned into a compulsory part of the process. Once you register or book a chef’s table at Deck 88, Chef Divyanshi and her team do a pre-interview with the diners at least 24 hours before the event. They then curate a special menu that speaks specifically to the diner’s soul, creating an event that is highly personalised.
“Now, after over 70 unique chef’s tables, I know that every chef’s table is a learning experience for my team and people love the concept too,” she explains. “The unique chef’s table here is about personalising, not customising. With 10 years of culinary experience, I can pretty much understand what a diner likes and dislikes after 10 minutes of conversation. But it’s also about making a smart choice as a chef. For example, if I’m cooking for an Italian, I will not cook Italian. No matter how much experience of cooking Italian as a Continental chef I might have, I can never cook like an Italian cook or a nonna. If you’ve already had the best version of a dish, why would I try to give you that? Instead, I would like to tweak or innovate a version of your favourites that you have never tried before.”
In this author’s case, Chef Divyanshi came in with a questionnaire of sorts and then let the conversation flow to major life events around food, food memories that are cherished, flavours and cuisines that one loves, and of course, things that are on this foodie’s bucket list that are yet to be explored. The highlights of the conversation involved a love for regional Indian favourites, an undying obsession with authentic South Indian flavours and incredible meals while growing up in Gujarat, Punjab, Bengal and Delhi.
Once Chef Divyanshi conducts an interview with the diners, she and her team also delve deeper into the minefield of personal experiences that people showcase on their social media accounts. This gives the Deck 88 team another layer of information to work with and certainly helps personalise the actual chef’s table experience.
The Personalised Experience Of Eating At This Chef’s Table
While this author has experienced plenty of chef’s tables, the experience at Deck 88 was truly a mix of nostalgia and familiar flavours in incomparable formats. The first thing to note was the decor and setup of the area designated for the chef’s table. Thanks to their social media research, Chef Divyanshi’s team was able to highlight this author’s love for owl art and the key food experiences with friends and family over the years. The table settings featured a hand-painted owl on a plate and pictures of loved ones peppered all around. And then came the six-course dinner experience.
The drink of choice offered was a piping Hot Toddy with dark rum and honey. The first course served was that of Kosha Mangsho with a Kori Gassi twist, served with Dosa. The slow-cooked mutton was melt-in-the-mouth in texture, and the gravy was as deep as a traditional Kosha mutton from Bengal, had a kick from Byadgi chillies and a hint of coconut milk to highlight Mangalorean cuisine. The crispy Dosa was perfectly paired with this one.
The second course presented a take on Delhi-special Chole Chaat in a petite tart format. The crisp tart shell of the Chole Chaat Tart was loaded with spicy chickpeas, tamarind and green chutneys, and other toppings that make Delhi’s street food such a hit with foodies. Next up was another course with South Indian flavours, this time covering Mangalore’s popular Ghee Roast with Appams from Kerala and a punchy Podi from Tamil Nadu. This course of Ghee Roast Fish and Appam with Podi showcased how authentic elements from various regional cuisines can gel well together when cooked with the right intent.
Changing up the spicy streak of the previous courses was the fourth course of Gujarati Kadhi with Khakhra Crackers. Like a traditional Gujarati Kadhi, this one was on the sweeter side and paired perfectly with the crunchy fenugreek-flavoured Khakhras. The smooth, yoghurt-based dish worked as a palate cleanser too. The fifth course reflected this author’s love for Maharashtrian and Italian cuisines in the form of a Gavran Chicken Ravioli. Created by Chef Dave Bose from Chef Divyanshi’s team, this dish looked exactly like a spiced Bengali Kochuri topped with shaved coconut, bringing in a rare fusion of Maharashtrian spices, Italian techniques and a flair of Bengali cuisine.
For the last course, Deck 88’s pastry chef whipped up another fusion dish, this time merging the texture of a Gujarati Shrikhand with the flavour profile of Bengali Mishti Doi. Once again, the thoughtfulness behind the bowl of creamy, smooth sweetness managed to evoke nostalgia while delivering the perfect end to the highly personalised meal.
At the end of the meal, the entire Deck 88 kitchen team came out to talk to the diners, get feedback and click pictures. What ran through this author’s mind was this: Every chef’s table offers food, and the best ones offer some food for thought. But the unique chef’s table at Deck 88 offered a lot more. The nostalgia of the decor and the thoughtful research behind the curated menu here—which changes with every chef’s table—puts the diner in focus. It offers the diner an evening that captures food memories, dreams and nostalgia in the form of perfectly plated dishes. And for Chef Divyanshi’s team, every chef’s table offers a window into a diner’s food experiences, giving the chefs a chance to innovate and learn.
This chef’s table at The Astor, Goa, is then not just a meal. It’s a journey for every person involved, chefs and diners alike, and certainly not to be missed.
Chef's Table Cost at The Astor, Goa: INR 3500++
Contact For Bookings: 9028059414
Location: 22/7, Bammon Vaddo, Candolim, Bardez, Candolim 403515