Mangalore is a diverse place where people of various cultures and backgrounds come together, including Mangalorean Catholics, Bunts, Brahmins, Konkanis, Protestants, and Beary. Each community has its own unique cuisine, often similar to each other but with a lot of differences in the sub-cuisines as well. Of them, Mangalorean Catholics are a unique community of Catholics who migrated from Goa to predominantly reside along the southwestern coast of Karnataka, which was historically recognised as South Canara during British colonial rule.
Having migrated to South Canara between 1560 and 1763 during events such as the Goa Inquisition and Portuguese-Maratha wars, they adopted the local languages of South Canara while maintaining Konkani mother tongue and cultural practises. They endured a challenging 15-year captivity under Tippu Sultan but thrived under British rule after his defeat. Their culture is an amalgamation of Mangalorean and Goan traditions, which reflects in their culinary traditions.
Dishes like neer dosa, kori rotti, ghee roast, and sukka may be popular in the cuisine of Kudla, but the Catholics, with their traditional delicacies like roce curry, mutton polov, and pork indad, enrich Mangalore's culinary diversity. Subtle differences, like the usage of tamarind as a souring agent in Mangalorean Catholic cooking instead of kokum as in the Goan cuisines, reflect the culinary similarities and yet the contrasting differences that have been adapted from the South Canara region over many centuries.
A distinct connection between specific foods and significant life events can be observed within the Mangalorean Catholic community. For instance, their pre-wedding and wedding menus feature a set of dishes like sannas, pork baffat, and roce curry that are commonly savoured at weddings in their community. Similarly, many other delights feature significant milestones in their lives. "It is customary for family, friends, and the dear ones to bring gifts of rice, animals like goats or pigs, ash gourds for polov, and other things to the wedding home, which will be used for the preparation of roce and the wedding feast. The gifts are called vojem in Konkani," says Jessie Crasta from Mangalore.
Let us explore the delicacies that are innate to their wedding rituals and feature in Mangalorean Catholic weddings.During pre-wedding ceremonies, roce, which refers to coconut extract, involves ritual purification of the bride and groom with freshly extracted coconut milk and cold-pressed coconut oil. "Traditionally, the bride and groom are ‘cleansed’ and ‘prepared’ for the life that follows the marriage ceremony. Basically, it is a custom borrowed from the local Hindu cleansing rituals and can be compared to the ‘haldi’ ceremony that is followed elsewhere in India," says Shireen Sequera in her food blog, Ruchik Randhap. This ceremony is marked by playful traditions where coconut milk is playfully poured on the bride and groom by younger family members, adding a unique cultural touch to their celebrations.
Polov
The polov is a quintessential Mangalorean Catholic curry, traditionally associated with the Roce ceremony, where it's served alongside a substantial bun or bread. Mutton, or prawn polov, is a coconut-based curry that is served with warm buns and is something that guests eagerly look forward to devouring at the function. " It is a tedious process to prepare mutton polov as it requires sun-dried coconut called korpo, which is further processed while making the curry. The cooking time for this dish is long and slow. Thus, it is usually prepared for the roce ceremony during the weddings only," says Parinita Salian Crasta, a photographer and food blogger from Mangalore.
In the past, this curry was lovingly prepared by home cooks for the occasion, but nowadays, caterers have assumed this role. Shireen says that the earliest polov preparations were made only with the ash pumpkin, called kualo in Konkani. Based on the affordability of the host, shrimp polov has made its way to the menu in place of mutton over the last few decades. She adds, "A traditional ‘Roce’ meal was served on banana leaves; it included mutton polov served with a large bun made in large ovens fueled by firewood."
Sukke
This is a dry vegetable, meat, or seafood dish that is usually referred to as sukka. This dish is usually prepared with raw bananas called kele, Bengal gram, chicken, clams, or dried shrimp for roce and weddings. Roasted coconut and toasted spices are the main ingredients for the sukke, and the dish is a stir-fry that is prepared similar to the Goan Foogath or thel piao. Thel piao style with onions and oil is mostly used for vegetarian sides like kelen sukke or chane sukke. "Thendli, or ivy gourd, and cashew stir-fry is a commonly prepared vegetable side dish that you will see at almost all weddings. The preparation is similar to Hindu-style palya," says Parinita Salian Crasta.
Roce Curry
This is a mildly spiced curry made with coconut milk and fish. This dish is made specially for the roce ceremony and is served with a side of boiled rice or sheveo (spring hoppers made from rice flour). The other variations of this dish include chicken or prawns as well.
Sannas
Sannas are yeast-fermented steamed rice cakes that are often enjoyed with dishes like pork sorpotel or pork bafat. "They are a celebratory staple that is mandatory at the Mangalorean Catholic weddings, along with pork baffat or indad. Modern ways may have changed the Catholic wedding menu in many ways, but the celebrations are incomplete without this traditional rice bread," says Cheryl Raj, whose family hails from Mangalore.
The soft and fluffy texture of sanna sets it apart from South Indian idli, despite sharing some similarities. While idli is made with urad dal, or instant versions, sanna's batter is traditionally fermented with toddy, or yeast. Sanna's smooth, white texture makes it a favourite breakfast item and a special part of festive feasts.
Pork
Pork baffat or indad paired with sannas are almost mandatory dishes that are served at every Mangalorean Catholic wedding. Pork baffat is a traditional Mangalorean Catholic dish made with pork using a spice mix called baffat masala. It is dukra maas in Konkani and is known for its rich, spicy, and aromatic flavours. The key ingredients include marinated pork that is cooked in chillies, ginger, cloves, baffat masala, and vinegar. The resulting dish is a delightful fusion of sweet, sour, and spicy flavours.
Pork indad is another kind of pork preparation that is usually made for weddings. It is a sweet and sour pork gravy that is similar to Goan pork vindaloo. Instead of kokum, tamarind is used in preparing this traditional dish.
Vorn
Vorn is a sweet dish prepared mainly during weddings. Vorn, in Konkani, is a pudding that has a distinct flavour and richness derived from coconut milk. The recipe is often passed down through generations. It's a healthy dessert with no ghee or oil, made with green gram boiled in water, flavoured with coconut milk, sweetened with jaggery, thickened with powdered rice, and garnished with raisins and nuts, offering a delightful balance of flavours. "Vorn is a pudding or payasam made from moong dal. Be it roce or wedding, vorn is the celebratory sweet that is included in the menu irrespective of anything else," says Parinita.
Sweet Pulao And Plum Chutney
"This combination is something that one cannot miss at Mangalorean weddings. It is the most delightful dish that I look forward to at every Mangalorean Catholic wedding. "I enjoy the tartness from the bright red plum chutney that pairs beautifully with a mild and fragrant sweet pulao," says Cheryl.
Sweet pulao is a delightful and aromatic rice dish that features basmati rice, sugar or jaggery, ghee (clarified butter), aromatic spices like cinnamon, cardamom, and cloves, as well as dried fruits such as raisins and cashews, and a garnish of fried onions called birista. It is served with a special plum chutney.
Plum chutney is a gourmet delight that includes deseeded dates, mint leaves, cloves, cassia bark (or cinnamon), onion, dried red chillies, fresh ginger, golden raisins, boiled and peeled beetroot, ripe banana, tamarind, and a touch of salt. The ingredients are ground to create a fine paste. This chutney is a perfect accompaniment to sweet pulao. When stored in an airtight container in the refrigerator, it can keep for up to 2 days.