A road trip to Leh, Ladakh is a dream vacation for me. I have seen umpteen number of reels and videos of travel bloggers across social platforms where they have captured the beautiful roads leading to the hilly terrains. The sky is in the purest blue hue and the lush greens growing amidst the rocky terrains complement it perfectly well. The humble abode of people living in the region is always brimming with some appetizing aroma. That’s the charm of Ladakhi cuisine. While it is often said that everything tastes better in the hills, the flavours of Ladakh will surely validate the claim.
Although the landscape and picturesque views are the most talked about in Ladakh, we cannot ignore the regional cuisine that this hilly region has to offer. Geographical proximity as well the location of the place has a major impact on the culture as well as cuisine of the place. Ladakhi cuisine is a culmination of several such influences from its neighbouring areas like Kashmir in the north as well as Lahaul and Spiti in Himachal Pradesh. Not just within India, the bordering nations like China and Tibet have also made significant contributions in the evolution of this multi-cultural cuisine.
While the silk route and trade between the countries made Ladakh a strategic point, the region continued to be remotely connected with the rest of India for the longest time due to its high altitude. This factor was a major reason for availability of limited resources and access to limited facilities. The climatic conditions of Ladakh also drove the food choices of the natives. For instance, wheat and barley are consumed extensively during winter months as they keep you warm and are easily grown in the region. Given the extreme weather conditions, agricultural production and farming activities cannot be carried out throughout the year which adds to the difficulty.
However, during the Silk route trade, intermingling of cultures took place which resulted in several Tibetan influences in the culinary scape of Ladakh. This can be clearly seen in the form of Thupka and mok moks. Thupka, for those living under a rock, is a thick soup dunked with fresh vegetables and noodles and made into a wholesome both. This noodle soup bowl is a heavenly Tibetan treat that is widely available in Ladakhi cafes today.
Mok moks or momos are yet another delicious snack that originates from Tibet. The steamed, all-purpose flour dumplings are filled with everything, from minced meat to pork and vegetables and served with spicy chutney. The fan fare of momos is not only limited to Ladakh but has reached several parts of North-East too. You can find some of the best momos and thupka at Tenzin Dickey Tibetan Restaurant in Ladakh.
The soupy affair of Ladakh doesn’t end at thupka because they’ve got Chutagi and Skyu on the menu too. From the pasta-like bow-tied water bread dish to the nutritious slow-cooked stew, these traditional delicacies are available at Alchi Kitchen and the Wanderers Terrace Café respectively. Both the dishes have vegetarian as well as meaty versions.
There are several local ingredients too that are grown in the region and used for making a variety of dishes like apricots, apples and walnuts. Given the harsh climate, only hardy crops like these survive the dipping temperatures. For instance, apricots are extensively used in Ladakh not just as a fruit but also to make a delicious jam. Colloquially known as chulli, apricots were introduced to the Ladakhis by China and Central Asia and since then several orchids have been set up in the region to make jams and syrups for breakfast and desserts.
The mornings in Ladakh begin with khambir that is accompanied with eggs for breakfast. The leavened wheat bread is baked over a hot stone and served hot in the morning along with vegetables or eggs. This can also go well with a Ladakhi dry cheese called Chhurpi. Available in both soft and hard textures, the yak cheese is often used in thupkas and momo fillings. The Alchi Kitchen located in the Alchi village is a good place to savour Khambir along with fresh apricot juice.
On your trip to the region, if you stop by for tea somewhere you are sure to be served a soft steamed bun along with your cup of gur gur chai. They are special Tibetan bread buns made from white flour and are not just a tea-time snack but a great pairing for lentils and meat-based dishes too. A sip of the famous pinkish butter tea of Ladakh which is made from salt and yak butter along with a bite of the fluffy tingmo serve as a great evening meal.
Apart from this traditional drink that is high in calorific value and perfect for winters, there is another alcoholic beverage that is washed down on occasions like child birth, marriage etc. A locally brewed beer, Chhang is made from barely and contains not more than five to seven percent of alcoholic content.
The easy availability of rice in the region has made it a staple during summers so much so that a Ladakhi sweet dish called De si is also prepared using it. Made by cooking rice with butter and sweetening it with sugar, the dessert is a popular style of rice pudding in the region.
The diverse culinary spread of the remotely-known cuisine of Ladakh is proof of the impact of distinct cultures in the evolution of the same.