Sushi is synonymous with Japanese food these days. It also has a fascinating and somewhat obscured, history. Records have been found from circa 700CE that mention a related food item, but, given the time period and the evolution of the Japanese language, one cannot say for certain that it was sushi as we know it today. Some others claim that sushi isn’t even Japanese, that sushi was originally developed in “Southeast Asia between the 5th and 3rd centuries BC as a way of preserving raw fish in fermented rice.”
It wasn’t until the Middle Ages that sushi evolved into a proper dish. In the Edo period of Japan (1603-1867), fermented rice was replaced by vinegared rice. The vinegared rice, also known as dashi, prevented the raw fish from spoiling. The modern Sushi that we now associate with a fine dining experience of Japanese cuisine was first innovated in the same Edo period by chef and restaurateur Hanaya Yohei in 1824.
There’s more to this fascinating dish and its continuing story.
Evolution of sushi
The evolution of sushi began slowly over the past 800 years but began to change dramatically in the early 19th century when the people of Japan started eating three meals a day. The rice was boiled instead of steamed, and the fermentation time was reduced. As a result, rice was often eaten with fish in sushi. This change in the style of sushi was followed by the Muromochi Period, which saw the development of oshizushi, where the cook compresses sushi rice with fish and other toppings, and then cuts it into smaller pieces. Later, the Azuchi-Momoyama period saw the introduction of namanare, a new style of sushi where the emphasis was more on flavor than on preservation. This style is closer to the sushi we know today.
In 1824, the capital of Japan was moved from Kyoto to Edo, resulting in a transformation of the city, making it among the largest cities in the world. It was then that sushi makers perfected a method of fermentation that would eventually lead to the modern nigiri style of sushi. Cooking oil became cheaper and more easily available. As a result, many restaurants began offering. During this period, sushi was sold in the park, in theaters, and even in houses. In the early 1800s, the first sushi stalls were set up on the bank of the Sumida River. At that time, the sushi was called inari-zushi and was sold at the lowest price possible.
Then, the Civil War happened and sushi chefs began experimenting with faster fermentation times. The result was chirashizushi and makizushi.
Another interesting point to note is that significant sections of Japanese society were influenced by Buddhism, which forbade the consumption of meat. So, many turned to fish as their main source of protein. But the smell of fermented fish was, understandably, quite repulsive and had to be kept to a minimum to make the food more edible.
The rise of Edomae Sushi
Edomae sushi's origins can be traced back to nineteenth-century Tokyo, where sushi vendors sold raw fish from waterfront pushcarts. The popularity of Edo-style sushi spread throughout Japan, and today, chefs have adopted the style for restaurants across the country. Edomae sushi is a refined version of its traditional counterpart, nigiri sushi. It is flavorful, buttery, and tender. It is prepared by curing the fish in salt, boiling it for three seconds, and putting it in an ice bath. The squid in Edomae-style sushi is a favorite of many and is served on a bed of rice. The saltiness and umami in the fish's flesh give this dish its distinctive flavor.
As the process became more efficient, a variety of styles began to emerge. When sushi was first introduced to the public, it was made by rolling the ingredients on a cylinder made of rice. It was often served to workers as a meal, but eventually became an iconic part of Japanese cuisine.
Today, the edomae sushi style has evolved and incorporated many different styles and techniques. The original ingredients, cooked rice, and fermented fish were local to Edo Bay. These days, many restaurants offer this traditional form of sushi in a variety of price ranges and with different preparation methods.
Evolution of hayazushi
Hayazushi first appeared in street stalls during the Edo period in Japan and was originally made from pressed rice dumplings. As transportation systems improved and fish could be delivered more frequently, the time needed to preserve the fish was reduced. That meant the fish was ready for consumption much sooner.
As the cuisine of Japan evolved, rice was added to the fish, and spices were added to the rice. The rice and fish were then cooked together, and the entire dish was consumed.
Hayazushi has evolved from humble origins in the Edo period to a fine dining staple in upscale Japanese restaurants today. Additionally, the role of Japanese food in fine dining has grown manifold since French chefs began training in Japan. This development has seen the hayazushi evolve from a simple rice noodle to a gourmet sushi experience. Not bad for a dish that was described in the 12th century as a cross between blue cheese, fish, and rice vinegar.