For over three centuries, the secluded group of ladies from Nuoro in Sardinia has maintained the secret of su filindeu, making it the rarest but one of the most precious forms of pasta in the world. Locals call this tricky pasta in their dialect "threads of God." Traditionally, it's prepared only twice a year: May 1st, the Feast of San Francesco, and October 4th. For miles, pilgrims travel in the dark of night to the sheltered village of Lula to be greeted with a steaming bowl of su filindeu in a rich mutton broth, topped off with fresh pecorino cheese. But its ancient cultural and traditional past is severely threatened by the existence of su filindeu, as there are barely a few people remaining who still have mastery over such a delicate craft.
Su Filindeu: Its Mystique
Su filindeu: the name itself means "threads of God," evoking one of the most striking remnants of Sardinia's special gastronomic heritage. The pasta itself is so fine that it looks like silk threads rather than conventional pasta. What makes it celebrated is the intricate process of preparing it from only semolina flour, water, and a grain of salt. Of course, the trick really happens in the hands of only a few women who prepare it. They stretch and fold the dough over and over until they get strands as fine as hair. These are then laid down meticulously on a round tray called a fundu in thin layers, making a lattice. When it's dried, su filindeu becomes something translucent and very delicate; it cooks in seconds.
A Few Last Strands Of Tradition
Despite its culinary allure, su filindeu is on the brink of disappearing. For generations, the secret of how to produce this kind of pasta has been passed down through members of one family in Nuoro. Nowadays, less than ten still know the technique. A lack of interest from the young to learn such a tiring and long process increases the possibility of losing such a cultural treasure. The fact that su filindeu has been put onto the Ark of Taste by Slow Food International draws attention to the need for urgent conservation of this unique tradition, not only related to a culinary practice but cultural identity.
Contemporary Su Filindeu Preservation
Preservation efforts for su filindeu have been taken on various fronts. In 2005, Barilla, the world's largest pasta company, tried but failed to reproduce the process with the help of modern technology. Even celebrity chef Jamie Oliver succumbed to defeat after trying to learn it from Paola Abraini, one of the very few remaining masters. Documentaries and publications, are testament to the process so that it may not be lost to time. All these acts serve to create some awareness for a new generation to take up the challenge of mastering su filindeu.
The Gastronomic Journey Ahead
Connections created across the world give cause for hope: su filindeu may finally gain some new fans off Sardinia. Interest in traditional foods, especially in their artisan dimension, is raising among chefs and gastronomes all over the world. This increasing interest might give a push to su filindeu and enhance preservation and innovation. Shared, su filindeu's story and technique can hopefully resurrect this ancient craft and secure its place in the culinary world for future generations.