In the era before the scientific process was the root of all major breakthroughs in various fields, knowledge was largely anecdotal, passed down through generations in an elaborate, multigenerational game of Chinese whispers. Biases stemming from one’s religious beliefs, superstitions and past experiences largely shaped the information that was available to even the most well informed scholars. Stemming from this reality, we come to discover a vast mythos surrounding spices, a pertinent subject of the pre-enlightenment times; one that has built and broken the wealth of nations, shaped beliefs and was probably a hot topic of conversation across all classes of society.
The 19th century saw a marked decline in the relevance of spices as cane derived sugar began to take its place as the colonists’ cash crop of choice. Species that were once native only to remote islands in the East Indies are suddenly found to be thriving in far flung corners of the West Indies and Africa, leading to an explosive growth in output that sent spice prices tumbling down and their widespread use rocketing up. The development of international trading routes, improved knowledge of agriculture, and processing were all by-products of the spice trade and factors that ultimately led to their ubiquity.
The Lure of Spice
Prior to that era, there were a few key reasons that led to beliefs around the extraordinary properties of spices. Firstly, they were only found in far-off lands that were largely unfamiliar. Secondly, they could only be acquired and consumed by those with vast resources. Their culinary application was quite novel at the time, adding unfamiliar yet exciting flavours to an otherwise bland diet that was consumed across most of the western world. They also aided in masking the unpleasant odours stemming from stale meats, fish and other foods that did not stand up well to existing forms of preservation.
Spices also saw many documented applications in medicine as well as posthumous customs. Cinnamon is of particular interest. A tree bark native to Sri Lanka, that is also sold alongside its cheaper counterpart cassia bark (which is similar in its properties), bearing a sweet and heady fragrance that is retained even if the spice is burned. Cinnamon was used in ancient China to treat fevers, menstrual problems and as incense. The legends surrounding cinnamon during a time where its price was comparable to gold included a mythical bird whose nest was made entirely out of cinnamon sticks! The journey to these nests was one of danger and treachery where many lost their lives in pursuit of the spice. The myth was believed to have been circulated by Arab merchants in order to maintain high prices, and to obscure its true source and means of acquisition. Cinnamon is also mentioned commonly in Greek and Egyptian mythos, taking a place of high prestige among gods and royalty. The popular Greek mythological tale about the Phoenix rising from the ashes has the bird rising from a magical fire created by burning Cinnamon, Myrrh and Spikenard.
In Egyptian Society, spices such as carraway, coriander, fennel and garlic are used extensively in medicinal applications. Many of these have also been found within the tombs of Egyptian Pharaohs as their valued medicinal and culinary attributes are believed to carry into the afterlife. Queen Cleopatra was said to include cinnamon as an integral part of her lifestyle, using its oils, incense and even whole sticks for decoration.
Spices used by the Egyptian civilization are said to have come from Ethiopia. There are even recorded uses of pepper that could have originated from as far off as the Indian subcontinent, specifically, modern day Kerala.
Spices hold a high place of honour within the vast lore of the Abrahamic religions, which can perhaps explain the importance that spices held as a commodity as well as their value in religious beliefs. They are mentioned frequently in the Bible as a gift of great value, accorded the same prestige as gold and precious stones. The body of Jesus Christ was also said to have been anointed by numerous spices in his tomb, a tradition that by this period was already thousands of years old.
The Indian Subcontinent was a hotspot of the spice trade for many centuries, with an extensive documented history of spices as far back as the 1st century CE in the writings of Charaka and Sushruta II. These writings described spices as a crucial element in the Ayurveda lifestyle as a means of promoting health and well-being.
The Mughal empire’s royal kitchens used spices in elaborate recipes and as a means to elevate Royal cuisine. Many crucial cooking techniques, recipes and styles of preparation have all descended from this period in Indian history, and are an integral part of the country’s culinary tapestry.