In October 2023 husband-wife chef duo, Mathew Varghese and Ebaani Tewari started their restaurant Kari Apla, in Khar in Mumbai. The idea of the restaurant was for it to be an ode to their multicultural backgrounds, and their diverse roots in Maharashtra, Kerala, Goa, Kolkata, Andhra Pradesh, Gujarat, and UP with techniques they learned in their professional careers. Mathew formerly worked with Comorin, The Orient Express, and Taj Lands End while Ebaani was with Bastian & Taj Lands End.
“Starting a restaurant has always been our dream, and Kari Apla has been a work in progress for several years. The idea really took shape during the lockdown, when we kept ourselves busy researching dishes and putting together menus. The name ‘Kari Apla’ was chosen intentionally—it’s a playful blend of Kariveppila which means curry leaves in Malayalam and Apla which means ours in Marathi. It captures who we are, and the kind of food we grew up eating and still enjoy cooking for friends and family. It was initially a plan for a later phase in life, but now in retrospect, we're glad we executed it now,” says Mathew.
“We’ve always been passionate about regional cuisines, especially from the Deccan and coastal parts of India. It’s the kind of food we personally love, and we feel it has so much depth and flavour to offer. We really wanted to share that experience and let more people discover just how incredible regional food is,” Ebaani adds.
Kari Apla’s Take On The Onam Sadhya .
The restaurant which is known for its contemporary interpretation of traditional Deccan Indian and Coastal cuisine will soon be hosting a special non-vegetarian banana leaf sadhya meal to celebrate Onam. While the traditional Onasadhya is centred on vegetarian seasonal produce, specifics of the meal can vary across households, especially in the Malabar and central regions of Kerala.
The beauty of the sadhya is that every community brings the bounty of their region and the techniques of their cuisine to the preparations and in many families, this often includes a mix of non-vegetarian and vegetarian dishes. A non-vegetarian Sadhya is more common in the Northern parts of Kerala, although not as popular as its vegetarian counterpart outside of the region.
In North Kerala, particularly among the Malabar community, influenced by the region’s Muslim and Hindu traditions, the feasts feature flavorful preparations of mutton, chicken, and fish, served alongside classic vegetarian dishes.
“Onam is Kerala’s most unifying celebration. Because the festival of Onam is not tied to any specific religion, it is celebrated by all the communities. The traditions and celebrations are pretty similar throughout the state, whether you’re in the north or south, since it’s less about where you are and more about the shared experience of welcoming the harvest,” says Mathew Varghese who has Keralite and Syrian Christian roots.
“I have great memories of all these dishes and the Sadya itself. Growing up in Calcutta, Onam was a big event at our church. The whole community would pitch in, cooking for over 400 families. It was filled with song, dance, and incredible food. It was a community affair in its truest sense - lots of good memories. We have carefully curated a menu that reflects the essence of the festival and sense of community around it, while offering a modern perspective and are excited to showcase this lesser-known side of the famed Onam meal,” he adds.
What’s On The Menu?
Guests can expect an extensive menu of over 20 dishes that include classic vegetarian fare such as Avial, Inji Puli, Thoran, Sambar, and Payasam as well as exciting new additions like Prawn Peera, Koonthal Masala, Fish Curry, Kerala Mutton Cutlet, Egg Chukka and Chicken Pepper Fry.
Kari Apla will serve up the sadhya in three seatings, on Sunday, 15 September. Prior reservations are a must. For information, call +918433706258.