Jharkhand, the small little state mostly known for its fauna and tribal population has always been boasting about its forests and of course its authentic cuisine. Largely being a tribal state, the cuisine is driven by local flavours that are homegrown. Many of these fruits, leaves, mushrooms and truffles are unique to the tribes of the state and are eaten as seasonal feast food. During monsoon, one such unique mushroom, called Rugda, is consumed by the locals. Due to its peculiar taste and texture, it is known as the ‘vegetarian mutton of Jharkhand’.
Rugda or Futka is indigenous to Jharkhand and the local markets are flooded by these grape shaped, white and brown mushrooms during monsoon. Interestingly, Rugda is not cultivated at all. Rather, the rare fungus grows by itself beneath the surface, under Sal trees. It gets the perfect humidity for its growth in the dense forests of the state. It looks very different from other mushroom varieties because it does not have any stalk attached to it. Rugda is very hard and rubbery on the outside and has a black yolk-like interior, which gives it a peculiar taste. It is also extremely healthy to consume because it is richer in protein than regular varieties of mushrooms. Additionally, it has zero carbohydrates and is packed with minerals and vitamins. A nicely cooked bowl of Rugda is the perfect food for mutton lovers who wish to enjoy the taste but are wary of those extra calories.
Rugda is not very popular outside Jharkhand and is confined to the geographical boundary of the state. This is largely because this variety of mushroom is not a cultivated crop. Tribal women of Bundu, Tamar and Pithouriya wander in Sal Forests for hours in search of Rugda and then dig it up from under the roots of the trees. Because such extensive labour goes into the procuring of Rugda, it sells for more than INR 200 per kg, which makes it inaccessible for a lot of people. Another important reason that Rugda is not consumed outside Jharkhand is that it is highly perishable and hence, difficult to export to other states.
My introduction to Rugda was a failed attempt by my mother to cook the same. Being a Bengali who grew up in Vishakhapatnam, she was alien to a lot of Jharkhandi food items. So, when she received a bag full of Rugda from our watchman’s wife, she did not know how to cook it. She prepared it like one would generally make mushroom and it turned out to be an undercooked disaster. My mother was done with Rugda, but I wasn’t. My tryst with zeroing down upon a good recipe was accelerated by the fact that everyone who had tasted Rugda claimed that it was exactly like mutton. So, after a few trials and quite a few errors, I managed to come up with a recipe that is easy to make and tastes as close to meat as possible.
Ingredients
- 500 gms rugda
- 2 tablespoons ghee (clarified butter)
- 2 thinly chopped onions
- 3 onions made into a fine paste
- 1 sliced tomato
- 5-6 green chillies
- 1 tablespoon ginger-garlic paste
- Salt as per requirement
- ½ teaspoon of turmeric powder
- 1 teaspoon chilli powder
- 1 teaspoon cumin powder
- 1 teaspoon coriander powder
- ½ teaspoon garam masala
- 1.5 teaspoons of meat masala
- Chopped coriander leaves for garnishing
Method
1. Cut each Rugda in half and carefully wash them in lukewarm water to remove all the dirt.
2. Put the Rugda in a pressure cooker with a pinch of salt and boil it till 2 whistles.
3. Strain the water, sauté the rugda in a tablespoon of ghee with salt and keep it aside.
4. For the gravy, heat a tablespoon of ghee and fry the chopped onions till golden brown.
5. Add the ginger-garlic paste and the onion paste and cook till the raw smell is gone.
6. Add all the powdered masalas, except garam masala. Keep sprinkling water when required.
7. Put in your tomato slices and add salt according to the requirement.
8. Add the sautéed Rugda once the tomatoes are cooked.
9. Slice the green chillies and add them to the gravy.
10. Add a cup of water and let the gravy cook for 5 minutes.
11. Add the garam masala and give the gravy a good stir.
12. Finally, garnish your Rugda curry with Coriander leaves.
Enjoy a bowl of Rugda with steamed rice and treat yourself to the best vegetarian mutton gravy this monsoon.