As a food writer, it’s pretty much part of my job description to be interested in the spectrum of food history India has to offer. But it’s been frankly alarming to find that every time I learn more about a new regional cuisine, I find that I’ve still barely scratched the surface of the treasure trove of our country's diverse culinary wealth.
Indian cuisine is often lumped under one big generalising banner. You’ll see it on menus across the world (and unfortunately sometimes in India too) that a Tikka Masala (ostensibly Indian but more accurately British), is followed by a Korma (Mughlai) and a Vindaloo (Goan), with absolutely no demarcation. Sure, they are all vaguely Indian in origin, but in doing this, all the fascinating differences between regional cuisines are completely glossed over and labelled as one homogenous beast.
If you’re looking to explore regional cuisines and get up close and personal with the many communities that make up India, the best way is to travel there and immerse yourself in local culture. But since we can’t all spend our lives on the road, books are the next best option. To get you started, here are a few books that combine personal experiences and local recipes to introduce you to some of India’s many regional cuisines.
1. Pangat, A Feast by Saee Koranne-Khandekar
This compendium of recipes and culture is a culinary journey through the lesser-known aspects of Maharashtrian cuisine. Koranne Khandekar pours her family history, experiences, and memories and sprinkles them with easy-to-follow comprehensive recipes to offer readers an insight into the rich and diverse flavours of Maharashtra that most people don’t see.
2. Spiced, Smoked, Pickled, Preserved by Indranee Ghosh
Born in Shillong and brought up in Kolkata, Ghosh delves into her past to share a treasure trove of dishes from her past. This book, subtitled ‘Recipes and Reminiscences from India’s Eastern hills’, is part food-driven memoir, part cookbook, and gives us a rare glimpse into the going-on in Khasi, Nepali and Bengali kitchens that outsiders rarely see.
3. The Essential North-East Cookbook by Hoihnu Hauzel
Of India’s many regional cuisines, the offerings of the North-East are among the least explored. In this concise exploration, Hoihnu Hauzel, a Manipur native has broken down the must-know dishes of the Seven Sisters and the brother state of Sikkim. Each chapter is prefaced by an introduction to the culture of the state, so even someone completely unfamiliar with North-Eastern cuisine can start their education here.
4. Bene Appetit by Esther David
India’s Jewish community is one that often gets overlooked but for anyone trying to learn more about the Bene Israeli community, Esther David's "Bene Appetit" offers a delightful place to begin. Aside from offering up a smorgasbord of delicious recipes to try, the book breaks down the meaning behind a lot of Bene Israeli culinary traditions and their religious and cultural significance.
5. Suriani Kitchen by Lathika George
Often referring to herself as the ‘accidental cookbook writer’, Mumbai-born Lathika George hails has family roots in Kanjirappally in Kerala. In this recipe-driven memoir, she takes you behind the scenes of her Syrian Christian heritage and introduces us to the allure of Kerala cuisine complete with helpful spice guides to make recreating the dishes a breeze.
6. Parsi Kitchen: A Memoir of Food by Anahita Dhondy
Chef Anahita Dhondy may have trained at Le Cordon Bleu, but she always felt there was something missing from the pristine, spiceless dishes of French cuisine. In this cookbook, she delves into her Parsi heritage, peppering the recipes with charming anecdotes from her life and unravelling the secrets of a culture that was born in Persia and raised in India.
7. Susegad: The Art Of Contentment by Clyde D’Souza:
Goan cuisine while popular, goes much deeper than fish curry and Bebinca. In this deep dive into the culture Clyde D’Souza unravels what it means to be Goan, from the history, music, festivals, and of course the food, he breaks down the true essence of Susegad – a word from the Portuguese meaning quiet, but for Goans, an emotion with no translation.
8. The Andhra Cookbook by Komala Sista Rao
This dive into the minutiae of Andhra Pradesh’s vegetarian cuisine features a host of tried and tested recipes handed down through generations. Most of the recipes hail from Komala Sista Roa’s ancestral home in Konasima in the East Godavari district and showcase the wealth of regional ingredients along with helpful tips and shortcuts to make the dishes yourself.
9. Eating India by Chitrita Banerjee
Travel the length and breadth of India between the pages of this travelogue cum historical exploration. Award-winning food writer Chitrita Banerjee takes readers through the formation of Indian cuisine through decades of invaders and culinary assimilations to unravel how each state’s unique heritage was shaped.