If there is one sauce that truly epitomizes the heart and soul of Italian cuisine, it would have to be ragù. Tossed over fresh homemade pasta or buried within a comforting lasagna, the condiment has this magic that shapes a dish into something warm and full-bodied. For most, it is a sauce that brings back memories from family gatherings where the aromas of slow-cooked meat and spices filled the kitchen. But besides tasting so good, ragù holds a history that spans centuries and borders. The journey of the sauce, from the French Ragoût to what is internationally recognized today under the name of Ragù alla Bolognese, has been adapted in many ways.
The History of Ragù
The story of ragù starts across the border in France, where the term "ragoût" was used back in the 17th century to refer to any overly seasoned stew of meat and vegetables. The very word means "to awaken the appetite," which is easily understood. Through the invasion of Napoleon in 1796, this filling and rich dish spread to Italy, where, in the city of Bologna, it was created by the Cucharoscià chefs like Alberto Alvisi, who contrived a pepper- and cinnamon-spiced meat sauce served with pasta—a novelty at those times.
It wasn't until 1891 that ragù alla Bolognese, as we know it today, was documented by Pellegrino Artusi in his cookbook La scienza in cucina e l'arte di mangiar bene. In his version, Artusi used a veal-based sauce with pancetta, onion, carrot, celery, and nutmeg, served with thick pasta and Parmesan cheese. Over time, ragù became more evolutionary, especially in the 20th century, when Italian immigrants in America adapted this sauce using local ingredients to the very popular tomato-heavy spaghetti Bolognese.
Recipe to Make Ragù at Home
Ingredients:
500g ground beef or a mix of beef and pork
100g pancetta, finely chopped
1 onion, finely chopped
1 carrot, finely chopped
1 celery stalk, finely chopped
2 cloves garlic, minced
1 cup tomato paste or 1 can of crushed tomatoes, optional
Optional: 1/2 cup red wine
1 cup beef broth
1/2 cup whole milk
Salt and pepper to taste
Olive oil
Parmesan cheese for serving
Method:
Heat olive oil in a large pot over medium heat. Add pancetta and cook until it starts browning.
Add chopped onion, carrot, celery, and garlic and sauté until the vegetables are tender and golden.
Next, raise the heat and add the ground meat to the pot, browning and caramelizing it.
Add the red wine if using and scrape up any browned bottom pieces into the pot.
Stir in tomato paste or crushed tomatoes, beef broth, and milk.
Now, lower the heat to low and let it simmer for at least two hours, stirring occasionally. The longer it cooks, the richer the flavors will become.
Toss the ragù with your favorite pasta, or use it as a filling for lasagna. Top with freshly grated Parmesan cheese.