What is Tamil cuisine? You might immediately say dosa, idli, vada and non-vegetarian delights like Chicken 65, but that would be a very limited view. Unfortunately, since these are the few dishes from Tamil Nadu that have been widely, even globally commercialised, most people naturally assume this is what Tamil food is limited to. Thankfully, chefs like Veerakumar Rengaraj from Hilton Chennai are doing their best to change this idea of Tamil cuisine.
More affectionately and popularly known as Chef Veera in the Indian culinary industry, this incredible chef is at Conrad Pune’s Coriander Kitchen for the Hilton Chef Exchange Program. Here, Chef Veera is showcasing his unique mastery of Tamil cuisine nuances through a 10-day food festival featuring the best of Chettinad as well as other Tamil cuisines. Speaking to Slurrp exclusively, Chef Veera gave us a glimpse into the spread on offer and how he believes it gives us a delicious inroad into Tamil cuisine. Here’s everything you need to know.
Tamil Cuisine Beyond Chettinad Favourites
The first thing to note here is that he does focus on a few well-known favourites in his menu, including Chettinad dishes, and the reason behind this is simple. “Chettinad is known all over the world, so that was a good starting point,” Chef Veera says. “Apart from that, we took the decision to not limit this menu to Chettinad food only. Chettinad is only one aspect of Tamil cuisine and within this one state, we have so many cuisines to showcase. Even the simplest recipes transform from district to district, so representing that variety was essential.”
The kitchen in Pune, though completely new to him, became more welcoming thanks to Chef Gaurav Herdwarkar being an old comrade of Chef Veera’s. “We went to hunt for South Indian ingredients in Pune’s markets. The city has plenty to offer and as we’re not limiting this menu to Chettinad cuisine alone, we found many ingredients that are equally used here and in Chennai,” Chef Gaurav explains. “We have created a cohesive Tamil menu here that speaks to the authenticity of the cuisine,” Chef Veera adds. “We sourced ingredients locally, and whatever we couldn’t get in Pune, we harnessed from Chennai to maintain the authenticity.”
Rice, Lentils, Millets And Sustainability
The approach Chef Veera takes to Tamil cuisine comes from the same sensibility and natural sustainability that most Tamil home cooks exercise every day. “If you see Tamil homes, we never waste any food,” he explains. “Idli batter we make gets consumed as idli on the first day, dosa on the second day, and by the third day, the batter is so sour that we balance it with spices and make it into paniyaram. I’ve taken that concept without the three-day recycling and created Kuzhi Paniyaram to replicate those homely flavours.”
What are the other features of Tamil cuisine that he believes people should know about? “Our strength lies in rice and lentils,” Chef Veera says, adding that Tamil cuisine depends on the variety offered by these two basic ingredients. Of course, this means any menu he creates will include a variety of flavoured rice like Puliyodarai, Puliyogare and Sadam—but that’s not all. A case in point is Kavuni Arisi or Tamil black rice. “We make everything from Pongal to Payasam with this ingredient,” he explains.
The other highlight is the use of millets in Tamil cuisine. “Millets are very famous now, but we have been using them extensively in Tamil cuisine for centuries,” he says. “Thinai is one of the most common millets we use, and I have featured it in this menu as well because it is so versatile. We can make everything from Pongal and idli to Adai with it. Any dish that features rice, and there are many in Tamil cuisine, can be made using Thinai.”
Chef Veera’s Tamil Cuisine Offerings
Understanding which ingredients and recipes you are choosing to represent a cuisine with is one thing, and acceptance of those authentic flavours by customers is quite another—and Chef Veera understands this quite well. This is the reason why all the dishes on his Tamil cuisine menu are being well-received in a city like Pune, where people are definitely used to spice and homely flavours. Here are some dishes that stood out for this author.
Chef Veera’s Kuzhi Paniyaram, when paired with the Thakkali Oorugai or sundried tomato and garlic pickle, was an outstanding starter. The Chettinad Kozhi Varaval was a spicy chicken treat perfectly suited to the beginning of a lavish meal. If you think raw bananas are a must on every Tamil platter, then the Kal Vazakkai Varaval is a must-have for its crispy and spicy flavours. And if you love mushrooms and the heat of peppers, then the Kalan Milagu Pilattal is something you shouldn’t miss.
Coming to the main courses, Chef Veera’s take on Chennai’s famous Chicken Biryani was a lipsmacking delight. A perfect balance of spices and fluffy rice made this one a true representative of the Tamil capital’s vibrant food culture. The Karuvepillai Sadam or curry leaves flavoured rice was quite the treat. And if you think cabbage is a boring vegetable, then you will change your mind after meeting Chef Veera’s Muttaikose Poriyal. The three ultimate treats for non-vegetarians on this menu were the Mutton Chettinad, the spicy Muttai Masala or egg curry, and the Meen Poondu Kuzambu, a sublime fish curry.
Paired with Parotta and plain rice, these dishes were not only packed with underlining coconut and curry leaf flavours, but also packed punches from peppers, tamarind and mustard seeds. Of course, no Tamil meal is complete without Curd Rice, and Chef Veera’s take on this dish is the perfect foray into the region’s cuisine for those unaware. With the sweet notes of Adirasam and Semiya Javvarasai Payasam to end the meal with, Chef Veera perfectly showcased just how vibrant and nuanced Tamil cuisine can be—and what a treat for foodies from around the nation dishes from this cuisine are.