Gone are the days when food décor was limited to a rose-shaped tomato (or carrot) as garnish, presented with aplomb by the chef on a dish, irrespective of the cuisine. So, whether it was a bowl of Chinese hakka noodles, which would come with an added option of chopped spring onion, or Indian biryani/curry or dal (always known as either Mughlai or Punjabi in restaurant menus) and, for that matter, even a bowl of Vegetable Au Gratin, the ‘rose’ would be the garnish.
The desserts would be sprinkled with chopped pistachios, almonds and, sometimes, a silver varq, if you were affluent. Cocktails or mocktails were similarly presented in a cloned model, adorned with coloured umbrellas and a canned cherry on the tail of a swizzle stick.
Diners, discerning or otherwise, were also not so bothered about how their food and drink were presented to them, so long as it appealed to their taste buds. That is no longer the case, these days.
Can you imagine how one’s Instagram feed would have looked, if such a scenario existed today? It is not enough to serve food, which is tasty, fresh, and healthy. It needs to be good-looking, and have that extra zing or X factor, which will amplify the dining experience and look appealing enough on our phone screens to get talked about.
Restaurants, middling, small and starred, have all upped their styling game and often hire a food stylist/photographer, who works on the food presentation, to make it look wow both to the diner and the cameras. Pretty looking (and edible flowers), microgreens (mustard, fenugreek, kale), herbs (related or used in the cuisine), nuts and seeds, charcoal colour, red velvet, and molecular gastronomy - all of it are on call.
In the modern restaurant scenario, Farzi Café has been a pioneer when it comes to making food look delightfully distinct. There is nothing boring about food served at Farzi, be it a Dhokla Chaat or a Misal Pav.
I found their chicken lababdar tart from the new menu a lesson in smart plating skills, fusing global and local elements. Desi Chicken Lababdar, in a crisp tart, Anglais style, topped with a ‘besan’ crisp, if you please and dusted with Andhra gun powder, howzat! Farzi’s imli chutney and green chilli-lemon foams have got imitated across wannabe restaurants, with mixed results.
Recently, at a pan-Asian eatery started by a group of young boys from Darjeeling, who are also wowing biryani-jaded Hyderabadis with northeastern cuisine, I was quite impressed by this innovative take on one of my favourite dishes, the Burmese Khow Suey. Those familiar with the hearty soup would know that with all the noodles, the vegetables (or meat of your choice) and coconut milk broth, the khow suey is more than a meal by itself.
So, Udai Tamang, the foodpreneur behind the above mentioned eatery, harnessed his large number of years of hospitality experience to come out with a bomb of an idea: Khow Suey Bites! Cutesy noodle baskets with the creamy coconut milk broth and condiments (peanuts, chilli flakes, lemon wedges, and fresh basil leaves) served separately, so that you top up with veggies and condiments of your choice and the soup broth and enjoy your Khow Suey in a bite or two, much like pani puris, a bite larger, perhaps.
This, according to Udai, was a response to his regular patrons, cribbing about how they could not try much of his restaurant menu thanks to the Khow Suey they absolutely had to have, as it was so unmissable. This way, they can have Khow Suey and a couple of other dishes too.
Indian cuisine has also shed its largely Punjabi and Mughlai connotations, and restaurants have come to embrace regional cuisines in all their individual glory, not just Rajasthani or Bengali but also Assamese, Hyderabadi, Odia, and Telangana. A Hyderabadi meal curated by author chef Mandaar Sukhthankaar (culinary maestro, when it comes to food styling) in a contemporary setting for our guests at Aish, the Hyderabadi speciality restaurant at the Park Hyderabad, comes to my mind.
So, there were miniature Shikampur Kebabs, patthar ke gosht and the rest, and soon after the starters and Paya Shorba, all of which were plated in smart sizes, guests were served a tamarind sorbet.
Tangy and sweet, with the fresh tamarind flavour coming through sharply, the sorbet was a delight and making it even more delightful was this dehydrated tamarind leaf stalk which was crunchy and edible and gave it a nice crunchy bite and texture. Simple ingredients taken from nature and adding that fab quotient to an already fabulous meal. No wonder, then, that it remains one of the most memorable dining experiences, not just because the food was delicious, that’s a given. It was this extra attention to detail, like its presentation and appearance, which took the meal to the next level.
Home chefs and bakers are doing some spectacular work, when it comes to food design and styling. The Uber talented Surabhi Sehgal, who calls herself a plant-based chef and artist, has Instagram followers drooling over her Purple Appe or Paniyaram, made from purple cabbage or a Labneh with colourful cherry tomatoes, fresh olives, pomegranate, pickled onions, mint, and pistachios, etc.
Even a Sol Kadhi with rice manages to look sublime with her plating skills, colour-abundant, neat, and absolutely delectable looking. Her Rice Phirni plating is a vision, and you might just notice these long, antique silver spoons which she had sourced from Istanbul, at an enormous price, just because she thought this was a worthy investment for her plating skills. That is the level of investment that passionate food creators have for food design.
Baking enthusiasts might want to follow the ‘passionate about baking’ Deeba Rajpal, who also hosts workshops on food styling and photography. Cookbook author, baker known for her mostly eggless desserts, Deeba is also food stylist and photographer par excellence. A Blue Matcha Dessert Box or a Saffron Mango Tres Leches Cake, Deeba’s desserts have Instagrammers drooling over her feed.
Food is now a much more accessible proposition. One is spoilt for choice when it comes to ordering your meal either in the comfort zone of your home or the plush ambience of a restaurant. It surely makes sense to make food look more appealing to cater to a wider audience and like they say, the first impression is the last impression. Especially when it comes to food, so plate up your food beautifully and get those diners’ endorsements.
About Author: Swati Sucharita is a Hyderabad-based journalist, food blogger and independent content consultant. You may write in at swati.sucharita@htmedialabs.com