On August 15 each year, churches around the world celebrate the feast of Our Lady of Assumption – in order to commemorate Mother Mary’s departure to heaven. Closer home in Goa, the Patoienchem Fest coincides with feast day as well as Independence Day – a community festival celebrated across the beach state, where enthusiastic participants can get a taste of patoleo – steamed rice parcels with a filling of coconut and jaggery. One of the largest community fests in Goa, the Patoienchem Fest is attended by thousands of people and takes place on the grounds of Our Lady of Soccoro church, located in the Bardez taluka.
Crescentia Scolt Fernandes, an Anglo-Indian resident of Delhi, married to a Goan, shares that patoleos were always made in homes for feast day, but the evolution of the feast day into a community festival was only recent. The restaurateur also adds that since rice is usually harvested at this time of year in Goa, patoleos were most likely made to celebrate a good harvest, while also pointing out that the monsoon season was also a time when turmeric leaves grew in abundance in the wild – making it the obvious vessel to steam the sweet pockets.
Typically, the villagers belonging to all seven wards of Soccoro come together to organize the feast and ensure that everyone gets to experience a taste of authentic Goan culture. These wards include Ambirna, Arrarim, Maina, Porvorim, Vaddem and Zosvaddo. Apart from the distribution of patoleos, some parts of Goa also distribute another sweet known as alle belle – according to Fernandes, the founder of one of Delhi’s iconic Goan restaurants – Bernardo’s. Some attractions of the fest include a brass band performing Konkani folk songs, shops selling local handicrafts and a grand feast to mark the day.
Apart from being one of the highlights of regional culture and food, community festivals such as the Patoienchem also shed light on traditional Goan cuisine that extends beyond the typical sorpotel and vindaloo fare. Delicacies like pudde, alle belle, latodd and soji are also served and relished by everyone on this day. If you want to experience a piece of Goa and the fest at home, here’s a recipe for the classic patoleo you can recreate at home!
Image Credits: Goa Heritage Action Group
Ingredients
- 2 cups rice, soaked overnight
- ½ cup flattened rice, soaked for 15 mins
- 2 teaspoons ghee
- 1.5 cups grated coconut
- 1 + ¼ cup jaggery
- 1 teaspoon cardamom powder
- 1 pinch salt
- 15-20 turmeric leaves, washed
Also Read:
Method
- Heat the ghee in a pan and add the grated coconut and jaggery.
- Allow the jaggery to start melting and combine with the coconut completely before you add the cardamom powder. Set aside to cool.
- Drain the two types of rice and grind into a fine paste before adding some water to make a batter. Add salt to the batter and mix well.
- Roll out the washed turmeric leaves and pat them dry before you spoon a layer of the rice batter on top. Add some of the coconut-jaggery filling in the centre and fold over into half.
- Repeat the process until you have enough and steam it for 12-15 minutes on medium-heat. Remove and unmould from the leaves and serve warm.