Onam is the harvest festival which is celebrated across Kerala with great pomp and show. The celebrations began on September 6, 2024, and will continue till September 15, 2024. From cultural festivities to the preparation of Sadhya, a special vegetarian meal, the festival is all about communities coming together, sharing traditions, and respecting each other.
As the popular saying in Hindi goes,
“Kos kos par badle paani, chaar kos par baani,”
Its loose translation says that India is a land of several flavours and languages, but despite the diversity, people are united. Quite the same is the case with the Sadhya meal. While the festive spread across the state looks similar, there are a few tweaks on the banana leaf as you move from North to South of Kerala. Slurrp connected with Indian chefs to help you understand different traditions practised and recipes prepared across the state on this special occasion.
Image Credit: Chef Regi Mathew
Sadhya: More Than A Meal
“In my childhood home, the kitchen was the heart of the Onam festivities. Elders in the family—both women and men—ran the show. Each had their role to play, from checking whether the rice was cooked perfectly to keeping a careful eye on the sambar and rasam bubbling in the kitchen,” said Chef Velu Murugan, Corporate Executive Chef At CGH Earth Experience Hotels.
He added that everyone in the house used to move in an unspoken rhythm so that every dish was cooked to perfection. “The sheer variety of vegetarian dishes that go into this feast is incredible, each with its unique flavour and texture.”
Speaking about Onam, he said, “Onam’s grand feast comprises more than 25 dishes, each one a testament to Kerala’s rich culinary heritage. From the subtle flavours of avial to the spicy tang of olan, from the comforting payasam to the tangy mango pickle—each dish plays a crucial role in making the meal complete.”
North Vs South Onam Sadhya Flavours
Explaining how it works in Northern parts of Kerala, Chef Regi Mathew, co-founder of Kappa Chakka Kandhari, adds that the spread usually consists of several dishes on the banana leaf. “It has pickles, chips, banana, rice, olan (made of ash gourd and coconut milk), sambar, pulissery, payasam, etc. These dishes are prepared using locally available ingredients,” he added.
Adding to this, Arokiya Doss, Head Chef, The Malabar Coast, explained that usually, people in the northern regions of Kerala prepare 24-30 dishes for Sadhya which are elaborate and boast tangy and spicy flavours.
“They use a lot of tamarind and roasted spices, and dishes like kaalaadi (a type of curry with black-eyed beans) and puzhukku (a dish made with yams and coconut) are common,” he added.
On the other hand, the count of dishes remains restricted between 10 to 20 in southern Kerala. Chefs Regi Mathew and Arokiya Doss agreed that dishes are presented in a simpler, more traditional manner, with a focus on the freshness and taste of each dish rather than the sheer number of items.
Chef Arokiya Doss further added, “Coconut milk is used more extensively, and dishes like avial (a mixed vegetable curry with yoghurt and coconut) and olan are typical. The Southern style tends to focus on a more balanced combination of flavours, often with a creamy and slightly sweet profile.”
North Vs South Onam Sadhya: Cultural Diversity
Chefs Velu Murugan, Regi Mathew, and Arokiya Doss explained that in many parts of Kerala - Kasaragod, Kannur, Wayanad, Kozhikode, and Malappuram - many people also prepare non-vegetarian dishes for the Sadhya. This represents cultural diversity. Chef Regi added, “These dishes are mostly made of chicken.”
Chef Arokiya Doss built on it by explaining that within the Moplah community, biryani and kozhi curry (chicken curry) are also a part of the Sadhya spread. He said, “These communities have their distinct culinary traditions, blending local ingredients with unique cooking techniques. For example, Moplah cuisine often features a range of aromatic spices and rich flavours due to historical trade links with the Middle East and influence from various cultures.”
“In the southern and central Kerala - Palakkad, Thrissur, Alappuzha, Pathanamthitta, Kollam, and Thiruvananthapuram, the spread is vegetarian. True to its roots. However, in places like Ernakulam, Idukki, and Kottayam, the Onasadya takes on a blend of both vegetarian and non-vegetarian dishes. It’s a celebration of the region's diversity, with families enjoying both types of cuisines at the table,” said Chef Velu.
There may be differences between Sadhya from North to South of Kerala, the meal promises a ride to gastronomic heaven. If you get a chance to treat your taste buds with traditional dishes, you should run after it.