As the monsoons embrace us, creating a cozy atmosphere within the confines of our homes, a symphony of earthy aromas fills the air. The sweet scent of wet soil mingles with the refreshing fragrance of rain, awakening our senses from a peaceful siesta. In these moments, as the raindrops rhythmically dance against the windows, it's the perfect time to indulge in a hot and crispy snack, complementing the warmth of a steaming cup of coffee or tea.
In the western ghats region of India, also known as Malenadu in Kannada, where the rainfall is heavy during the season, hannu gaarige is a delicacy that the households in the region indulge in the most as an evening snack. When translated, hannu means fruit, and gaarige means fritters in Kannada. So, fried fruit fritters, especially those made from jackfruit and banana, are the most popular. They are so fragrant that the aromas fill up the homes, enhancing the cravings for these deep-fried fritters on most evenings during the rainy season.
Across the region, these fritters are locally called by different names, and you can experience the variations of the traditional recipe. Fruit fritters are made by using many different fruits, like jackfruit, mangoes, bananas, and pumpkin. In Mangalore and Udupi, these snacks are called 'mulkas' or appa in the Tulu dialect. Konkanis refer to the jackfruit fritters as ponsa mulik, and the Kodavas in Coorg call them chekke nurk puttu.
Hannu gaarige is made by grinding washed rice with the fruit pulp, some cardamom, and jaggery into a batter. Chopped fruit bits and sesame seeds are mixed into this batter, and a spoonful of this batter is dropped into a hot pan of oil to deep-fry the snack. Gaarige is a simple dish that is fried till it turns golden brown with a crunch on the outside, and the amalgamation of fruit pulp and rice lends a pancake texture that is pillowy soft on the inside. The sweetness and a slight tangy taste from the fruit balance the flavour profile of the fritters, with cardamom enhancing it and the sesame seeds adding a toasty and nutty flavour to the snack.
When the fruit is sweet, like ripe jackfruit, mangoes, or overripe bananas, which are ideal, jaggery is not necessary as the sweetness of the fruit lends the right balance of taste and flavour to the fritters. There are many variations of this snack across the Western Ghats region of India. Neyyappam in Kerala is one of them, where the same batter is shallow-fried in an appe or a paddu pan like pancakes instead of the deep-frying method. Moreover, neyyappams are made with different batters that use wheat or millets instead of rice without adding fruits as well, which makes them different from gaarige.
The recipe for Malenadu's hannu gaarige is slightly different from the Kodava nurk puttu. Although both are fruit fritters, the rice and fruit pulp are ground together in the former, while rice flour and black sesame seeds are mixed with the fruit pulp in the latter. The difference can be experienced in the texture and taste of the fritters, where the nurk puttu taste best when they are served piping hot and the gaarige are more softer and can be relished even when they are not served hot.
The monsoon season brings with it a magical atmosphere, filled with earthy aromas and the soothing sound of raindrops. During this time, the joy of indulging in hot and crispy fritters becomes a cherished tradition. Whether it's the hannu gaarige of the Western Ghats or the nurk puttu of Kodava, these fruit fritters offer a delightful blend of flavours and textures. The variations in names and recipes across the region add to the charm of these snacks, showcasing the diverse culinary heritage of India. From grinding rice and fruit pulp together to mixing rice flour with fruit pulp, each method creates a sense of nostalgia that makes you want to revisit it every year during the monsoon.