The first thought most people have when they hear about the Michelin Guide is the pretty standard – ‘Huh, I wonder why it has the same name as the tyre company?’. And divergent as those fields are, they seem unlikely to be related. But surprise! They're one and the same.
The Michelin Guide began in France as a project by the tyre company to list and recommend restaurants on different routes to people wanting to stop off for a bite to eat. These restaurants were given a star rating, one for a guaranteed good meal, two for something exceptional and three for a completely unmissable experience. Over the years, that guide grew in prestige and scope and now is one of the most coveted awards a restaurant can possess.
Many people gripe about the lack of Michelin-starred restaurants in India, but the truth is, it’s not a reflection of the quality of restaurants or some perceived cultural slight, it’s down to a technicality. The awarding of a star is only applicable to countries where the Michelin Guide operates and although it’s spread beyond France to the rest of Europe, New York, Hong Kong, Dubai and London, it doesn’t currently operate in India. So India doesn’t have any starred restaurants, simply because there’s no Michelin Guide India to put them in.
That doesn’t mean that India as a whole doesn’t garner recognition from the Michelin committee or the culinary community and in fact, recognition of Indian cuisine is currently on the rise. Semma in New York only last week was recognised with its first Michelin Star, after making headlines for its inspired ode to traditional South Indian cuisine.
Head Chef Vijay Kumar at Semma often speaks about his desire to stay true to his roots and showcase his heritage, once saying to Hindustan Times, “There is absolutely nothing tweaked! We just want to be who we are, unapologetically.” This statement is a hopeful clarion call for the new era of India’s global culinary story.
In the past, there have been other Indian chefs associated with Michelin-starred restaurants, such as Chef Vikas Khanna during his time at Junoon or Atul Kochhar at Tamarind or Benares. But all these endeavours have championed a modern and somewhat anglicised approach to Indian cuisine. One where molecular gastronomy and innovation were at the forefront of the creative vision with traditional flavours bringing up the rear. While all of their work is exceptional and every accolade more than deserved, it has to be said that there was a definite gap between what they served and Indian food as history knows it.
Sona – another New York-based restaurant which is co-owned by Priyanka Chopra-Jonas – also won hearts and a star for itself in 2022 for its ‘timeless Indian’ approach to the menu. Chef Hari Nayak’s approach to Indian cuisine is to champion food that reminds him of home. With roots in Udipi, Karnataka, he focuses his efforts on regional flavours that capture the soul of India. Traditional flavours, local, seasonal ingredients and an experience that is uplifting.
This shift towards an appreciation of the nuances in Indian cuisine doesn’t appear to be some sort of fluke. In June of this year, Chai Pani in Asheville Minnesota was named America’s most Outstanding Restaurant at the James Beard Foundation Awards. Serving affordable and delicious street food, the restaurant has been lauded for its chaat, rolls and variety of regional thalis.
Someone from India may glance through the lists of pakoras and uttapams and wonder what all the fuss is about. But that is the crux of the issue. In India, we’re spoilt by how readily and widely available good food is. The local chaiwalla might have the best vada pav you’ve ever tasted, the random dhaba you stop at on your trip may have an exceptionally beautiful butter chicken, or even the small Malvani joint that charges a pittance for a fish thali may be a meal you’ll remember forever. The scope of Indian cuisine is just too vast to conceptualise, and although there’s a long way to go towards showcasing its many facets, the trend towards awarding places that let their roots lead the way is a good omen for the future.