Lucknow, renowned as the kebab capital of India, boasts a rich culinary history. The city’s history with kebabs, dating back to the 17th century, is steeped in royal heritage, with iconic dishes like the Tunday Kebab and Galouti Kebab defining its gastronomic landscape. What makes Lucknow's kebabs truly exceptional is their traditional preparation on coal-burning sigrees or tandoors.
These charcoal-fired cooking methods impart a distinct smoky flavour which comes from the old-school preparation method. However, Lucknow’s local kebabs may taste very different in a few days, thanks to a legal directive from the Lucknow Municipal Corporation (LMC).
In partnership with The Energy and Resources Institute (TERI), the LMC plans to replace these traditional charcoal tandoors and bhattis with gas and electric alternatives in restaurants, hotels, and roadside stalls. The initiative aims to combat air pollution and reduce carbon emissions from approximately 20,000 eateries that currently use coal and wood for cooking. The transition will start with 250 establishments, with about 40 already surveyed.
The LMC is focused on providing restaurant owners with detailed information and practical solutions to ensure a seamless shift. A similar move was implemented in Delhi in 2018, where coal-burning tandoors were significantly restricted to address deteriorating air quality.
Municipal Commissioner Indirjit Singh said that a study has found that there is a reduction in AQI and so people are told to use gas tandoors. "There are more than 2,000 tandoors operating. We found through a study with Teri (The Energy and Resources Institute) to combat air pollution and make the process more environmentally friendly and will tackle the carbon emissions of approximately 20,000 eateries that currently rely on coal and wood for cooking.
Many old-school eatery owners who operate charcoal-run set-ups will have to adapt to the new technology which may pose a challenge. Moreover, several owners have pointed out that traditional ovens offer the benefits of slow, consistent cooking which are are essential to make certain tandoori items like sheermal which need a slow-cooked treatment to retain its softness.