It’s no secret that Calcutta was a hub of culture during the British Raj and the Colonial Clubs of India, some of which have survived in time, and are steeped in rich history, tradition, and a unique blend of culinary influences. These institutions were more than just gathering places for the British colonial elite; they were cultural hubs where food played a significant role in shaping the identity and experience of the club members, most of whom were finding their ground in a new country.
The advent of European food in Calcutta had a lasting impact and this would survive in modern-day Kolkata for decades with the flavours of Anglo-Indian which became a bridge between the two cultures, with its influence enduring in modern Kolkata's restaurants, homes, and historic clubs, preserving the essence of European culinary traditions in an Indian context.
Clubs like the Tollygunge Club, the Bengal Club, the Calcutta Club, and the Dalhousie Institute, established during the British era, still exist today and their memberships are highly coveted and accompanied by seemingly endless waiting lists. While these clubs have preserved their traditional annual events, such as their renowned Christmas lunches, they have also evolved to align with modern trends.
However, some of these clubs have witnessed milestone moments in history. For instance, in 1921 when Edward, the Prince of Wales visited Calcutta, he visited the Bengal Club for lunch, following his address at Victoria Memorial.
These clubs were exclusive enclaves for British expatriates and high-ranking Indian officials who had adopted British customs. Food was a central aspect of club life, symbolizing the comfort and familiarity of home for the British, but it's important to note that some of the noteworthy gymkhanas and clubs in Kolkata such as the Bengal Club (1827) upheld colonial supremacy as Non–Europeans were not allowed.
The story goes that even Sir Rajendranath Mukherjee was not allowed inside the main dining room of this club even though he was a guest of Lord Minto. Dr B.C Roy had once refused to enter this club as he believed the club hurt national feelings.
The big British meals
In the early days, the menus at these clubs primarily featured classic British dishes such as roast meats, pies, puddings, and soups. During state events and official visits, the colonia club and local gymkhana menus featured a few must-have items, some of which are still available in the city in select venues.
New Zealand lamb chops served with Potatoes Dauphinoise and Greek salad, lobster thermidor with pommes frites, and mornay sauce pancakes were among these signature items which would feature on the menus of almost every colonial club.
The strong French Italian influence was quite still palpable in dishes such as Devilled Crabs, Prawn Cocktail or Garlic Toast with Chateaubriand steak (beef), and the Beckty Bell Meunierea along with Angels on Horse Back (sausage wrapped in bacon), the latter being a famous hors d'oeuvre derived from the French anges à cheval, which found popularity in Victorian England.
One of the most notable introductions to colonia club culture in the city was the concept of a "Sunday roast," which typically included roasted meat (such as lamb), potatoes, vegetables, and gravy. In Calcutta, this meal was often adapted with the use of locally available meats like chicken or mutton, and spices were added to suit Indian tastes. This concept of a roast would survive and become a central part of Anglo-Indian cuisine which has made a major impact in modern cuisine in Kolkata.
Dishes such as kedgeree, mulligatawny soup, and pish pash became staples in both British and Indian households. Mulligatawny soup, which means "pepper water" in Tamil, was another popular dish. It was a spicy, soup-like dish made with lentils, rice, vegetables, and meat, often thickened with coconut milk. The British, who were accustomed to soups in their diet, adapted this Indian preparation to suit their tastes, making it milder and adding European ingredients like chicken or lamb.
Pish pash, a simple dish of rice and chicken, became a comfort food for both British and Indian families. Essentially a dish made with soft rice and chicken, the term pish-pash was first recorded by English writer Augustus Prinsep in the mid-19th century. He called it “a slop of rice soup with small pieces of meat in it, much used in the Anglo-Indian nursery.” Its name, in fact, is borrowed from the Persian term ‘to break down something’, pashidan.
Tollygunge Club, which is considered an elite socialising destination even today was a noteworthy club during the British Raj. The extensive grounds of the club were originally an indigo plantation laid out in 1781 by the Johnson family. The exiled family of Tipu Sultan held their princely estate here. In 1895 Sir William Cruikshank established the club as an equestrian sports facility. The Tollygunge Club Christmas feasts were deemed legendary as set quite a few milestones especially when it comes to pastries and desserts.
It was the British who introduced Western-style baking techniques to the city, and soon, the city became home to several iconic bakeries, some of which still exist today. The pastries from this period reflected European sensibilities, with an emphasis on delicacy and refinement. Common offerings included tarts, éclairs, cream puffs, and sponge cakes. These pastries were often decorated with ornate designs and were made using high-quality ingredients like butter, cream, and imported chocolate, which were luxuries at the time.
A festive club staple during annual celebrations and special events was the lemon tart, a delicate pastry with a buttery crust filled with tangy lemon curd, topped with a light dusting of powdered sugar. Another favourite was the éclair, a choux pastry filled with rich cream and topped with a glossy chocolate glaze. The introduction of fruitcakes and plum cakes at Calcutta’s gymkhanas, especially around Christmas, gradually became a big part of these dinners. These cakes, often infused with rum or brandy and packed with dried fruits and nuts, were a festive treat that originated from European Christmas customs.
Social Dining and British Clubs
The British also introduced formal dining practices to Calcutta, with meals served in courses and an emphasis on etiquette. This was especially evident in the British clubs that dotted the city, such as the Bengal Club and the Calcutta Club. These establishments became social hubs for the British elite, where they could enjoy familiar foods in a setting reminiscent of home. High tea was another British tradition that took root in Calcutta. Served in the late afternoon, it featured a spread of sandwiches, scones, cakes, and, of course, tea. This practice became a symbol of sophistication and was adopted by the Indian elite as well.
These gatherings often featured a variety of sweet and savoury pastries, and the presentation was as important as the taste. Fine china, silverware, and linens were used, emphasizing the elegance of the occasion. The clubs also played a crucial role in shaping the culinary tastes of Kolkata, introducing new flavours and dishes that would eventually be assimilated into the local cuisine.