Exploring The Charm Of Mumbai’s Colonial Clubs And Gymkhanas

Several Clubs and gymkhanas in Mumbai are remnants of the British colonial era that have retained their charm and historical significance. While most have evolved to accommodate modern sensibilities somewhere they still hold on to some traditions from the past. These institutions, established during British rule, were originally designed to be places where British expats could socialise and have access to recreational activities that were a blend of sports, leisure, and networking opportunities. Today, they continue to be prestigious venues that are landmarks in themselves.

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The origins of gymkhanas and colonial clubs in Mumbai date back to the late 19th and early 20th centuries. The term gymkhana is believed to have been derived from the Persian word ‘Jamat-khana,’ which means a place for assembly or gathering. Over time, these venues evolved into a blend of athletic facilities, clubhouses, and social centres. 

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Among the oldest and most prestigious of these is the Bombay Gymkhana, established in 1875. It was a hub for cricket, rugby, and other sports, as well as a venue for social gatherings. Located in the heart of South Mumbai, the Bombay Gymkhana was built on land donated by the then Bombay government. Its colonial architecture and expansive grounds manage to leave visitors highly impressed even today.

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“There are a lot of clubs in Mumbai. Some were colonial and others were replicas. At one time almost every single Bombay community got into the game and a whole stream of very interesting clubs opened up. There's the Parsi Gymkhana, the Hindu Gymkhana and Willingdon Catholic Gymkhana which is not the same as the Willingdon Club. The Willingdon Club is at Mahalaxmi and the Willingdon Catholic Gymkhana is in Khar,” says Dr Kurush F Dalal, Archaeologist and Culinary Anthropologist.

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The Architecture And Ambience Of The Hallowed Halls

The architecture, like many old and prominent, South Mumbai heritage structures, reflects the colonial aesthetic, with grand facades, high ceilings, and spacious verandas. They include elements of Gothic and Victorian styles. These design elements have a certain grandeur that is reminiscent of the British aristocratic days. 

Culturally, these clubs were spaces of exclusivity and privilege. Initially, membership was restricted to the British elite, with stringent entry requirements. As India moved towards independence, the clubs began to open their doors to Indian members, but they continued to be exclusive to the city’s elite.

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Sports has always been a central focus of gymkhanas and clubs in Mumbai. Cricket, in particular, has been a major draw, with many clubs having their own cricket grounds and hosting local and international matches. Other sports such as tennis, squash, rugby, and badminton also feature prominently. These clubs have played a significant role in promoting and nurturing sports talent in the city.

For example, The Royal Western India Turf Club, known for its horse racing events, is another notable institution that highlights the sporting culture associated with colonial clubs. The Mahalaxmi Racecourse is operated by this club. 

Follow The Rules

Many of these clubs had strict rules about etiquette. You couldn’t speak loudly in certain areas for instance. The dress code was strict too. Even today many of these clubs insist on men wearing only collared T-shirts. Shorts and open footwear are usually not allowed. “The great painter MF Hussain was once not allowed to enter the Willingdon Club because he showed up barefoot and the club was clear that you had to wear socks and shoes. Some clubs also had a rule where one could not enter the dining room if they were not wearing a jacket and tie,” says Dalal.

Sharing a funny personal anecdote, he says, “A friend once invited us to the Royal Bombay Yacht Club and had to tell them that I had a fracture in my foot so I couldn’t wear closed shoes. I had shown up in my sandals.”

Dalal also mentions that while  women are not allowed on all days at some clubs, there’s also the Princess Victoria Mary Gymkhana where only women can be members.

The “Club Food”

The clubs and gymkhanas in Mumbai have long been known for their food. Originally designed to cater to the British expat community, these clubs served a menu that reflected colonial tastes, heavily influenced by British and European cuisine. Over time, however, the menus have evolved to incorporate a wider range of dishes, reflecting changing demographics of the membership.

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Back in the day, the menus at these clubs and gymkhanas were predominantly Western, with an emphasis on British comfort foods and European classics. Typical dishes included Roast Meats: lamb, and chicken roasts were staples, often served with gravy, Yorkshire pudding, and vegetables. Another quintessential British dish that was popular among club members was battered fish fillets and crispy fries. Hearty options such as the mulligatawny soup, a spiced lentil soup adapted from Indian flavours, were common.

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One dish that has remained popular over the years is Willingdon Sports Club’s Eggs Kejriwal. This is a popular dish that originated in Mumbai, specifically at the Willingdon Sports Club. Despite its name, it has no connection to any political figure but is named after its creator, Devi Prasad Kejriwal. Kejriwal was a member of the Willingdon Sports Club and a passionate foodie who often requested his favourite breakfast dish, which eventually became a staple on the club's menu. It typically involves a slice of toasted bread topped with a fried or poached egg, cheese, and spicy green chilies. 

“Most of the clubs were very popular for simple snacks. Chicken sandwiches, cheese sandwiches, chutney sandwiches, vegetable sandwiches, cucumber sandwiches, bhajias cheese toast, cutlets and kebabs. Tea would be served either by the cup or by the tray. You could make your own tea,” says Dalal. Classic British desserts such as the bread pudding and apple crumble were also on the menu. The dining experience was formal, with emphasis on service and presentation. 

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“The best food is at the Willingdon Sports Club. They have a well known catering department. The ham sandwiches at the Yacht Club are absolutely the stuff that legends were made of. There is also the Parsi Gymkhana. If you have a Parsi friend or know a member, you can be invited to lunch. It is a gorgeous old building, with old furniture. You can get a typical Parsi lunch,” says Dalal.

“At the Ripon Club, on Fridays there used to be something called 'half and half'. Instead of having the usual luncheon menu where there is a special every day, there would be two specials and you could call for half a portion of each and that used to be a major selling point of the meal,” he adds.

Evolution Of Menus

As the clubs and gymkhanas began opening their doors to Indian members, the menus gradually started to incorporate Indian dishes, blending colonial influences with local flavours. This transition marked a significant shift towards more inclusive culinary offerings that catered to a broader palate. 

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With the introduction of Indian cuisine, tandoori chicken, kebabs, and grilled fish became popular. A variety of curries, such as butter chicken, lamb rogan josh, and paneer tikka masala, began to appear on menus, offering members a taste of regional Indian specialties.

“Most of these clubs have now stopped catering for themselves. They have external caterers now. They use their kitchen and cater over there. Originally, almost every single club had its own caterer in the kitchen. So now the food at the club is as good as the current caterer is,” Dalal points out.

In recent years Indian street food favourites such as bhel puri, pani puri, and pav bhaji, have also found their way into the menus of these clubs. Today, menus include a mix of continental dishes such as pasta, salads, and steaks, alongside Asian-inspired options such as sushi, dim sum, and Thai curries. Many clubs offer healthier choices, including salads, and grilled vegetables.

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The beverage programs have also evolved, featuring craft cocktails, premium wines, and single malt whiskies, complementing an increasingly sophisticated dining experience. The clubs and gymkhanas host culinary events such as Sunday brunches, food festivals and put out seasonal menus. The menus aim to keep some of the nostalgia intact, while also offering contemporary flavours and bridge the gap between the colonial past and the present.

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“Most of the clubs also had bars, alcohol was served at a very affordable price and the clubs were popular for the snacks that were served with the alcohol. For example, Bandra Gymkhana and Khar Gymkhana were popular because alcohol was cheap. Some clubs had a liquour licence of their own and club members were allowed to keep their own bottles of alcohol in the club, pay a small corkage fee and drink from that,” Dalal explains.

Staying Relevant And Keeping Up With The Nostalgia

As Mumbai transformed from a colonial outpost to a bustling metropolis, these clubs and gymkhanas also evolved. Today, they serve as social and cultural hubs for a diverse membership that includes business leaders, politicians, and professionals. 

While retaining their historical essence, these institutions have become more inclusive, reflecting the changing social landscape of Mumbai. Membership is now more accessible, and many clubs have introduced initiatives to engage younger generations. This evolution has helped them remain relevant in a rapidly changing city. 

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One of the key attractions of these clubs especially today is the networking opportunities they offer. They provide a platform for members to interact with like-minded individuals. 

Despite their enduring appeal, colonial clubs and gymkhanas face several challenges. The maintenance of historic buildings requires significant resources, and there is a constant need to balance tradition with modernisation. Additionally, the increasing competition from commercial sports and leisure facilities and club houses being available in newer societies and apartment complexes makes the proposition of these clubs less unique. 

However, the joining fees of most of these clubs are high. While member’s kin get a heavy discount and have better accessibility, new membership can be steep and one can spend years for it to come through. Usually spots open up when older members pass away, someone gives up their membership or when new wings are being constructed.