IN VADODARA, a city brimming with heritage, history and culture, a cafe is serving new flavours. Gazra Cafe, located in the historical building of the Maharani Chimnabai Stree Udyogalay (MCSU), guests enjoy a scenic view of Sursagar Lake from which emerges the 34-meter-tall statue of Lord Shiva.
Amidst colourful Gujarati-style furnishings, black and white photos of the old city, antique pots and pans, and vintage radio sets, guests relish Mogra Shikanji with a Gujju Mezze platter or Zingy Alubukhara with Tam Tam, a street food of Baroda.
Note that the name is pronounced ‘Z’ and not 'J', underscoring the fact that the cafe not only serves Gujarati but also Maharashtrian cuisine. Gazra was also the maiden name of Chimnabai Gaekwad II, a women’s rights activist and the former Maharani of Vadodara. “It also signifies the diversity of not just food but in every aspect,” says Radhikaraje Gaekwad, the titular Maharani of Baroda and the force behind Gazra Cafe.
Gazra also happens to be one of the first restaurants led by the queer community. An advocate of the LGBTQ+ community, Radhikaraje has envisioned it as an inclusive space for all.
“The objective is to give the LGBTQ+ community a sustained livelihood and dignity. I first tried a pop-up in 2022 in the congested bylanes of the old city. I wanted to test the waters first. It was received well, which gave me the confidence to start a full-fledged restaurant. We still progressed slowly, like we didn’t have ACs when we started,” explains Radhikaraje who has nurtured this place along with her friends. While she brought in old textiles, utensils and photos from Luxmi Vilas Palace (the royal palace in Vadodara), her friends also donated some furniture. “It’s not a commercial place, it’s an old sanstha (organisation) and we have tried to keep that spirit intact,” she adds.
The food offered at the restaurant is an extension of the same vision. Authentic homestyle recipes from the staple of Gujarati and Maharashtrian cuisine make their way into people’s platters and hearts. Most of the dishes on its menu, like handvo, thepla chips, Puneri Misal Pav, Surti Chaat Taco, kothambir vadi, and Bombay Vada Pav, are served with a twist.
"We want to introduce young Indians to authentic local flavours. By creating a contemporary twist around traditional dishes and serving them in the casual atmosphere of a cafe, we can attract them,” stresses Radhikaraje. For instance, methi thepla has been given the makeover of nachos, which are served with gujju salsa.
Pithla bhakar, served with jowar roti and thecha, a Maharashtrian dish, isn’t commonly found on restaurant menus but has become a hit with the guests here. Pithla is a traditional Maharashtrian dish made using chickpea flour or besan served with rice or bhakri (roti). It is served with thecha, a spicy chutney of chillies, peanuts and garlic.
Dhruv, the chef, says, “Baroda stands for Gujarati and Marathi culture. When we were planning Gazra, we were clear on having something that would represent the essence of this city. We wanted recipes that are lost or are regular household dishes made by our grandmothers and great-grandmothers."
Not being a fancy dish, Pithla Bhakar, a home staple, has never got its due. “It’s a very regular dish at home. It’s always ready because it can be made quickly. We eat it even when we are mourning,” explains Sarita Gaekwad, Coordinator at Gazra Cafe.
Other dishes that catch your attention are Thalipeeth and Chapdi Undhiyu. Thalipeeth is a multi-grain flatbread popular in Maharashtra and Chapdi Undhiyu, a street dish of Rajkot, is a spicy vegetable accompanied by chapdi, a fried whole wheat flour dumpling.
All this can be washed down with some incredible beverages like mogra shikanji, rose sherbet, among other things.
Radhikaraje sourced a few homemade sherbets from Jaipur, which were then worked upon by Hina Ameen, who is great at mixology. “We have white rose sherbet which we have mixed with pure chandan (sandalwood) and lime. It works as a great coolant during summers,” says Ameen.
The fragrant mogra shikanji extracted from real mogra (jasmine) flowers is a massive hit with guests but it’s Zingy Alubukhara that stands out for me. The tanginess of plums and lime finds perfect allies in the spiciness of green chillies and the freshness of lemongrass. “We try and come up with seasonal drinks. No colours are added and since all sherbets are homemade, it’s authentic and healthy,” adds Ameen.
Sheera, farsi mawa, kakri raita, and authentic vada pav of Mumbai are some other specialities of Gazra Cafe.
Gazra has several members of the LGTBQ+ community on its rolls who are the face of the cafe. They handle the billing counter, work in the kitchen and also serve food to the guests. “Radhikaraje wants to mainstream them and raise empathy and awareness towards their identity. They are so talented, full of energy, and they really like to dress up,” adds Sarita.
Chef Dhruv recalls a recent incident involving one of the staffers who was born as a girl but now identifies as a man. “A guest called the staffer and addressed him as 'ma’am', to which he explained to the guest that he was born a female but now identifies himself as a male but hasn't physically transitioned yet. These kinds of interactions definitely help guests understand the community better.”
Julie Patel, head chef, joins the conversation. Patel’s laughter is infectious and energy is palpable. Patel, a transwoman, makes everyone dance in the kitchen. “People are very curious when they see me and I happily interact with them because this is what we want. To remove their doubts and understand us. I feel grateful to Radhikaraje for such an opportunity. There are so many people who can't be themselves when they're around their family or when they are around society but when they come into the cafe, they are themselves,” says Julie.
It doesn’t stop here. Gazra is also committed to promoting Indian art and craft forms. Given Radhikaraje’s appreciation for textiles and visual and performing arts, it’s only natural that she has created a suitable platform. The cafe has a small stage for artists to come and perform live. “We have had classical musicians and dancers perform here. Baroda College of Fine Arts is right opposite us. It’s like a creative outlet for artists here. There are many layers to Gazra—food, LGBTQ+ pride and art,” concludes Radhikaraje.
(Gazra Cafe is located inside Shri Maharani Chimnabai Stree Udyogalaya, opp. Sursagar Lake, Mandvi, Vadodara, Gujarat 390001. It’s open from 11.00 am till 9.30 pm. For reservations, call at 082003 06871)