How The Gurkha Legacy Lives On In One Tiny Fish

Objects out of place. This anthropological terminology is often applied to artefacts or relics that are found in an unusual context which challenges the preconceived notions of history. Simply put, these are things that do not logically belong in the places where they're found. But this phenomenon doesn’t just crop up in archaeological digs, it can even be found in something as simple as what people are eating for dinner. One example is the appearance of anchovies as a staple part of Nepali cuisine. 

A landlocked country, Nepal isn’t known for its wealth of seafood. Save for freshwater fish that could be caught in the rivers and lakes, there weren’t a lot of options available. So how did dried anchovies become an integral part of life for people who were hundreds of kilometres away from the nearest sea?

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It all began in 1816 during the Anglo-Nepalese war in which Nepali soldiers faced the British East India Company’s army. Though they fought bravely the war ended with Nepal ceding one-third of its land and being forced to accept British residents in their capital, Kathmandu. As a part of the peace treaty young men were recruited into the company’s army. 

Coming from four main communities of Magar, Gurung, Rai and Limbu, these recruits were known as the Gurkhas and continued to serve the British empire in wars across the world. The association of the Gurkhas with the British also led to the Gurkha diaspora in Southeast Asia. As the British presence became prevalent in this part of the world in the 19th century, the Gurkhas went with them. They served in defence of Malaya during World War II and the Gurkha Contingent was formed as a part of the Singapore Police Force in 1949.

It was here that anchovies became a staple part of their diet, since in a foreign country with foreign traditions and little familiarity to be found, anchovies may have reminded them of the small freshwater fish called sidra, a type of smoked, dried fish which was made back home. In Southeast Asia, anchovies are usually dried and cured with salt and are called ikan bilis. 

When the Gurkha regiments returned to visit their families they would bring these dried fish as gifts since they were well-preserved and easy to transport. The Gurkha families took to calling the fish Bhure Machha (meaning small fish) or Bruneiko or Singaporeko Machha as per where they came from. Since they were so often given as gifts, it became a customary way to extend hospitality to visitors. 

A versatile ingredient, they can be eaten in many different ways and each region has its preferred dish. They can be fried until crisp and eaten as a snack, incorporated into a pickle (Bruneiko macha ko achar) or in an aloo dum style recipe with potatoes, called Macha Sadeko. Thanks to their long shelf life and limitless applications, they quickly gained popularity among the general population, even those without direct Gurkha ties. 

They aren’t the only tradition that the Gurkhas brought back to Nepal however, they also introduced the concept of prawn and fish crackers which were wildly popular in Malaysia and Indonesia and are now a staple at Nepali celebrations. This long history of anchovies in Nepali cuisine may have a dark past, but by making them a part of celebration and sharing, the community has an ingredient that represents many lives and sacrifices and turned it into one of hope.