So goes a Chinese saying about Grain Rain or “Guyu”, observed over April 20-21 each year and marking the end of spring. From the middle of March, the weather begins to get hotter. As Chinese writers note, this is when the “peony sprouts and the cherry ripens”, “when the cuckoo chirps and the willow catkins fly”. Indeed, you may have seen images of the wispy white catkins — flowers of the willow — drifting in the air along Beijing’s streets… like a shower of fluffy down.
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By the end of April, these feathery downpours are replaced by real ones, with the rains beginning in earnest. This heralds a period of growth for rice, cotton and corn. Farmers protect their crops from pests and hunker down against the occasional gales and sandstorms.
In ancient times, Guyu would be observed in three distinct phases, each of which corresponded to the farming cycle. The first phase was signalled as commencing when duckweed covered the water bodies and wetlands. The second phase was when the cuckoos made their appearance; the third was when hoopoes were spotted among their beloved mulberry plants.
In the south of China, a longstanding Guyu tradition is to pick the newest tea leaves from the plants, and to prepare a brew with them. This “mid-spring tea” is known both for its quality of freshness and for the spiritual protection it seemingly provides against bad luck and misfortune.
Meanwhile, in the north, the custom dictates that toona sinensis — variously known as the “Beef and Onion Plant” (a nod to its meaty taste), “Chinese Cedar/Mahogany/ Toon” and “Red Toon” — be prepared and eaten. There are a number of ways in which the greens are prepared: the more fragrant and tender shoots and young leaves are combined in salads or stir-fried with eggs; they can be pickled; roasted and dried to brew later as tea; in dumplings or with tofu. Toona sinensis is used in traditional Chinese medicine as it’s believed to have many health benefits, including boosting immunity.
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Another northern practice is the launching of fishermen’s first sea excursions of the year. The villages along the coast give thanks to the gods for a good harvest and for keeping members of the community safe when they embark on their voyages. Prayers and sacrifices are also offered to the sea.