Anyone who has watched Ranveer Singh and Alia Bhatt-starrer' Rocky Aur Rani Kii Prem Kahaani' can't but be bemused by how the male protagonist's family wealth can be traced to a humble dish—the boondi ladoo. So much so that the matriarch, played by Jaya Bachchan, tastes these ladoos prepared in her eponymous Dhanlaxmi Sweets' kitchen, disregarding most of what is presented to her, and she even spends every Sunday morning preparing the ladoos herself.
The scene left many a matriarch across northern India misty-eyed; they recalled how every Diwali or any festive season, they would toil over preparing sweets and savouries, taking great care of each ingredient that went into it and how it was cooked. These culinary masterpieces would then be gobbled by their own family as well as their friends and neighbours, and notes would be compared on who made the best ladoo or gujiya.
Interestingly, these sweets were not just tongue-ticklers but had medicinal benefits, too.
70-year-old Gurpreet Kaur recalls how, as a child, her biji would get her to eat her medicines by mixing them in some laddoo. This trick is something most Indian mothers have learnt and passed down the generations and could well be the origin of the humble ladoo. According to folklore, the father of surgery, Sushruta, too used this modus operandi to get his patients to ingest their bitter ayurvedic potions between 800 and 700 BCE.
Health Meets Tradition: A Modern Diwali Platter
The Indian festive smorgasbord has a veritable feast of sweets and savouries that started with some medicinal or health reasons but soon found their place of pride on the platter. Kiran Ahir, founder of The Art Lab Patisserie and Bakery, also explains how gujiya, a delectable dumpling filled with sweet fillings like khoya and dry fruits, has a history rooted in Ayurveda. It was believed to have therapeutic properties and was used to balance the body's doshas. Today, gujiya is a much-anticipated Diwali sweet, cherished for its rich and decadent taste with many variants, including chocolate coated and truffle stuffed!
Similarly, take the case of the humble Panjiri ladoo. This traditional Indian sweet is often prepared during festive occasions and special celebrations and is a variant of Panjiri. This energy-rich sweet is made with ingredients like whole wheat flour, ghee (clarified butter), sugar, and a mix of nuts and spices. Panjiri is often given to new mothers to help them with their postpartum health issues as it has several nutritional benefits.
Meghana Narayan, co-founder of Wholsum Foods, claims that the history of Panjiri ladoo is intertwined with the broader culinary traditions of India. "In recent years, there has been a growing interest in reinventing traditional Indian dishes to make them healthier and more in line with modern dietary preferences," she said.
Commercial Influence: Convenience in a Box
Back in the old days, people had healthier and less sedentary lifestyles. Hence, a ghee-laden sweet actually did them more good than harm, unlike contemporary times where people is conscious about their calorie intake.
So, samosas still hold their own on the platter, albeit with a healthier twist; they are now baked or air-fried instead of deep-fried. Other preparations like halwas have lowered sugar content, while barfis are made with nuts and seeds. These micro steps can help people enjoy a healthier and more nutritious treat, retaining its cultural significance while appealing to their health-consciousness.
Since Diwali typically falls in the winter months, many of the dishes that make their presence felt on the festive platter are also seasonal fare. Like Gajar ka Halwa, which is made of fresh carrot crop harvested between October and November.
Similarly, sesame seeds and other dry fruits are used in most preparations since they generate heat in the body, which is much-needed during the Dilli ki sardi. These traditional preparations were designed to be a quick and convenient source of sustenance, especially in regions and times where people engaged in physically demanding work.
Changes in agricultural practices and animal husbandry patterns, however, influenced the availability of ingredients. The cultivation of certain crops and the domestication of specific animals led to variations in the ingredients used in traditional dishes. For instance, the availability of milk from dairy animals like cows and buffaloes contributed to the creation of sweets like Mawa Peda and Kalakhand.
The commercial food industry also played a significant role in introducing modern and convenient variations of traditional Diwali treats. Pre-packaged, ready-to-eat versions of these sweets like Gulab Jamun, Patisa and Kaju Katli as well as namkeen and farsan have become popular due to their convenience, especially for those with busy lifestyles.
The evolution of Diwali dishes can be attributed to a combination of factors, with migration facilitating the exchange of culinary traditions, the need for long-lasting provisions influencing certain snack recipes, and changes in cultivation and husbandry practices affecting ingredient availability. These factors together have shaped the rich and diverse landscape of Diwali cuisine that we enjoy today.
Culinary Evolution: From Roots to Revelry
Doing some crystal-ball gazing, one can predict that how dishes are presented and served will continue transforming. Creative plating, modern packaging, and artistic presentations will add an element of visual appeal to traditional favourites.
While the fusion of traditional Diwali sweets and savouries with myriad flavours is also likely to continue, Shauravi Malik, co-founder and CEO of Wholsum Foods, predicts that in the future, people will lean on healthier ingredients like millets.
"Millets are a rich source of essential nutrients, including dietary fibre, vitamins, and minerals. It also has a lower glycemic index compared to refined wheat flour, which means they lead to slower and steadier increases in blood sugar levels," he stated.
The evolution of sweets and savories on today's Diwali platter is a testament to the cultural and culinary dynamism of India. These delectable treats, once created for medicinal or practical purposes, have transformed into an essential part of the festive celebrations. "As families gather around the glow of diyas and exchange laughter and love, these delightful delicacies serve as a reminder of the rich history and traditions that make Diwali a truly magical and delicious festival," Kiran notes.
We are sure Jaya Bachchan aka Dhanlaxmi will approve.