Feni: Goan Drink Survived Colonialism, Partition, and Modernity

Feni is perhaps the very last drink that comes to mind when thinking about the history of alcohol. After all, it’s a concoction of fermented cashew apples and other natural ingredients. So how exactly did it stand out as one of the most noteworthy alcoholic drinks in India? 

That’s because feni isn’t your average hooch, nor is it an indigenous Indian drink. Rather, this unique liquor was brought to Goa by Portuguese settlers almost 500 years ago. The diaries of a 16th-century Italian traveler, Ludovico de Varthema, reveal quite humorously that "Feni will affect a man's head merely by smelling it, to say nothing of drinking it." 

Read More: How ‘feni’ is moving from homes to bars in Goa

A brief history of feni in Goa

Feni, a distilled liquor made from cashew apples, has a rich history that dates back to the 16th century. The drink was first brought to Goa by Portuguese settlers, who were actively involved in the spice trade with the East during the Age of Discovery. Since cashews grow abundantly in the coastal areas of Brazil, they were easily accessible to Portuguese traders. These traders brought the cashew apples with them to Goa, where they were fermented to create feni. The apples are harvested when they are unripe and green in color. They are then fermented in large wooden vessels before being distilled to make liquor. Feni is often flavored with spices like cloves, cinnamon, and pepper. 

Since there are no natural or synthetic flavors, it is safe to drink. The Sanskrit word phena, translated as "froth," is purportedly the source of the word "feni." This could be due to the fact that the drink shows its signature light froth formation and tiny bubbles when the bottle is shaken or the drink is poured into a glass. Feni has an extremely high alcohol content (43–45%), making it a powerful and pungent alcoholic beverage. 

Coconut Feni and Cashew Feni are the two most well-known kinds of Feni in Goa. Coconut Feni has been around longer than Cashew Feni has, and has been produced for longer. Feni was created in Goa using the abundant local coconuts. However, after the arrival of Portuguese colonists, cashew trees became the new source of this alcoholic beverage in India. 

How is Feni made?

The first step towards making feni is harvesting the cashew apples (or unripe cashew fruits), which are typically done while they are still green, and fermenting them in large wooden vessels. Fermentation happens when a mix of yeast, bacteria, and atmospheric oxygen react together to produce carbon dioxide, alcohol, and other byproducts. In the case of feni, the cashew apples initially produce ethanol and carbon dioxide. This is followed by a reduction in the CO2 content when lactic acid bacteria (LAB) make an appearance. The LAB are also responsible for creating a robust aroma and a tangy flavor. The fermentation process is stopped by heating the liquid to almost 100 °C. This kills off the microbes and prevents the feni from going bad. The liquid is then distilled to yield an alcoholic beverage that’s about 60% proof (120 proof) by volume. 

Prohibition and the rebirth of Feni

The Portuguese brought feni to Goa as early as the 16th century. It was made from fermented cashew apples, which grew abundantly in the state’s coastal areas. However, feni was banned when the Portuguese left Goa in 1961. The Indian government enacted a prohibition on the manufacture of feni and other strong alcoholic drinks in the state. This was done to bring Goa in line with the rest of India and curb alcoholism. The ban on feni was lifted decades later, in 1994, when the people of Goa petitioned the government to legalize it. The people of Goa wanted to preserve their rich cultural heritage and traditions. Feni was a part of this, and they wanted it to be legal again. The locals would drink feni during the harvest season and at annual festivals like the Goan Carnival.

Does Feni have any health benefits?

Oh yes, indeed! Here are some of them: 

•    During the fermentation of feni, probiotic bacteria are made. These bacteria are good for your health and immune system. 

•    Feni can also have some positive effects on your oral health, as it can reduce the risk of tooth decay and gum disease. 

•    Feni is also effective in treating respiratory ailments like coughing and sneezing by clearing out your lungs. 

•    Constipation and other gastrointestinal issues can be alleviated as a bonus benefit. 

•    Wounds and cuts can be quickly healed thanks to Feni's antiseptic properties. 

•    It aids in detoxifying the body and stimulating healthy bowel movements. 

So then, what's not to like about feni? Now you have one more thing to add to your to-do list the next time you visit Goa!