Exploring Tribal Kitchens Of Nagaland With Chef Karen Yepthomi

When you hear Indian cuisine, it is often divided into North Indian, South Indian, Gujarati, Rajasthani, Assamese, Bengali, Odia, Bihari, Punjabi, Pahadi, Goan, Maharashtian, and more. But Indian food spread more than that. It is, in fact, incomplete without tribal dishes prepared using indigenous ingredients and some of the oldest and traditional cooking techniques.

Chef Karen Yepthomi, Founder and Head Chef of Dzukou Tribal Kitchen, is leading The Naga Food Festival at The Qube, The Leela Palace, New Delhi, from September 26 to October 1, 2024. Each bite of any dish on the menu promises to transport you to Nagaland where you can taste the rich culinary heritage of the Northeast. 

Naga cuisine represents the food of Naga communities - some living in Northeast India while others belong to Kachin, Myanmar. The food is quite different from what you eat every day. It boasts bold flavours of the spices and local produce. The signature ingredients that rule the Naga cuisine are leafy vegetables, meats, and rice.

“Naga cuisine's unique flavours are a testament to the region's rich biodiversity. The liberal use of chillies, ginger, and locally-produced vegetables creates a harmonious symphony of taste,” said Chef Karen Yepthomi. She added that chillies add fire whereas ginger brings earthy notes to the recipe. The two robust notes are balanced by the subtle sweetness and bitterness of vegetables. 

“The combination of these ingredients, often cooked in traditional methods like steaming or grilling, results in dishes that are both bold and nuanced. This culinary ingenuity reflects the Nagas' deep connection to their land and their ability to transform simple ingredients into extraordinary flavours,” she said with pride.

Naga Cuisine And The Art Of Preserving Food

Chef Karen Yepthomi, known for preparing authentic dishes from Naga cuisine, talked about rich and diverse vegetarian recipes from tribal cuisine. While speaking to Slurrp, she added that the cuisine showcases a deep-rooted understanding of food preservation that ensures a consistent supply of essential ingredients throughout the year.

For many who aren’t aware, the weather in Nagaland is largely monsoon. The summer season lasts here for a few months but winters are dry and bitter cold. In some parts, especially areas at high elevations, snowfall makes it difficult to get hands-on essential food supplies throughout the year. Therefore, much like Kashmir, Himachal Pradesh, Sikkim, Ladakh, and Uttarakhand, people here preserve food.

Since ginger and chillies are crucial to the regional recipes, Chef Karen explained that they are often sun-dried. “The intense sunlight removes moisture, inhibiting microbial growth and preserving natural flavours,” she added. 

People here smoke meat through firewood techniques. Chef Karen called them ‘time-honoured’. She said, “The smoke's antimicrobial properties and the low temperatures involved contribute to a long shelf life while adding a distinctive smoky flavour. These traditional methods highlight the Nagas' ingenuity and their ability to harness the resources around them for sustenance and culinary excellence.”

Also Read: 7 Famous Food And Dishes Of Nagaland You Must Try

Naga Cuisine Featuring Rice Delicacies

Rice is widely consumed in Nagaland, and it is often served with vegetarian as well as non-vegetarian delights. Chef Karen Yepthomi said, “Rice is prepared in various ways to complement the region’s diverse flavours.” 

Amrusu is a hearty dish prepared in Nagaland. It is a stew of rice flour, chicken, and fresh herbs. “It is a testament to the Nagas’ ability to create satisfying and flavourful meals that showcase their culinary heritage,” the chef added.

Many people have the myth that Naga communities prepare a limited number of vegetarian dishes. However,  the local cuisine hides secrets of unique and nutritious plant-based delights. Chef Karen shared that gazie leaves boasting earthy and bitter flavours are used to prepare vegetarian delicacies. 

“This small and exotic bitter ball is a member of the eggplant family, known for its medicinal properties and often incorporated into dishes for its health benefits. Other noteworthy leafy greens include michinga leaves, napa (wild lemon basil), four-lined beans, and fresh Naga Kholar (fresh kidney beans). These ingredients, along with fresh wild coriander leaves, Naga ginger, and garlic, form the foundation of many comforting and flavourful vegetarian dishes in Nagaland,” the chef said.

Naga Cuisine: Use Of Spices And Preparation Of Fermented Beverages

If you have ever been to Nagaland or tasted the regional food, you must have observed that Naga morich and bhut jolokia are two spicy chillies used in the preparation of food. Seasoned cooks and chefs skillfully balance the intensity of these chillies using fresh herbs. 

Chef Karen Yepthomi said, “This harmonious approach allows the unique flavours of each ingredient to complement one another, resulting in a complex and well-rounded culinary experience. The traditional Naga king chilli chutney, served separately, offers a customisable level of heat for those seeking a more intense flavour profile.”

The tribal kitchens also have recipes for delicious beverages. In Nagaland, you will observe that many of these drinks are prepared by fermenting the star ingredients. Chef Karen explained, “By harnessing the power of beneficial microorganisms, fermentation transforms raw ingredients into flavourful and nutritious products. The resulting fermented foods and beverages, such as Axone (fermented soybean) and fermented bamboo shoots, are rich in probiotics, beneficial bacteria that support gut health and overall well-being. This practice not only enhances the taste and texture of food but also preserves it for longer periods, ensuring a steady supply of essential nutrients throughout the year.”

The tribal dishes are often prepared following traditional cooking techniques - steaming, boiling, and smoking. Chef Karen said that the techniques allow the inherent qualities of the food to shine through. She added, “The emphasis on fresh produce, fermented vegetables, and smoked meats reflects the Nagas' deep connection to their land and their ability to transform simple ingredients into extraordinary dishes.”

Image Credit: Chef Karen Yepthomi/ Instagran

What To Savour At The Naga Food Festival?

Speaking about the food pop-up, Chef Karan Thakur, Executive Chef, The Leela Palace, New Delhi, said, “This initiative to showcase regional Indian cuisines is an endeavour that contributes to the preservation and promotion of our country's diverse culinary heritage. By highlighting hyper-local flavours and cultures, the hotel not only believes in offering its patrons unique gastronomic experiences but also in fostering a deeper appreciation for India's rich culinary tapestry.”

Among vegetarian delicacies that you can savour include black turtle bean salad, pomelo salad in Naha herbs, akibiye (taro roots in mustard seeds), seasonal boiled vegetables, Naga kholar (kidney beans), fermented soybeans, Naga sticky rice parcel, Raja mirchi sauce, sweet potato cake, roasted corn, black sticky rice pudding, and more. The non-vegetarian delight that is a must-savour according to Chef Karan Thakur is chicken with perilla seeds. He added, “The nutty, subtly smoky aroma of the perilla seeds beautifully enhances the savoury flavour of the chicken.”