“The most natural looking foods are the ones that seem least-naturally desirable,” nature writer Richard Mabey had written in ‘Food for Free (1972)’, a book which led to a resurgence of foraging in the modern day. Mabey was particularly referring to the supermarket produce which, although labelled ‘organic’, essentially takes us far away from nature.
“They seem to epitomise healthy modern living… Yet it is difficult to believe that some of these products actually grow, so perfect are their proportions,” Mabey had written. With more and more chefs spotlighting the significance of hyper-local and small-batch cuisine, it’s not surprising that foraging has received the kind of attention it has in the country, what with its connection to sustainability and traditional food systems.
This practice of gathering wild, edible plants, fruits, and herbs from nature, has seen a comeback in India in recent years, especially with the rising number of urban foragers, who are driving attention to indigenous knowledge and seasonal diversity, by curating nature walks, setting up tasting tables to make the idea foraging more accessible. However, there’s more to this experience than a touristy walk-and-pluck; without mindfulness and a commitment to nature and community, foraging may seem pretty pointless.
“There is a wealth of wisdom that exists with local communities and the tribal population. Learning about the local species along with the importance of foraged ingredients from various perspectives - nutritional, medicinal, cultural and environmental can only be understood by interacting with locals,” shares Gaurang H. Motta, co-founder of the social enterprise The Monks Bouffe.
The platform which was established in 2016 has a focus on regenerative farming, exploring traditional food systems and curating forest walks to help newbie foragers connect with local, indigenous communities. One of their recent Instagram posts features Ambi Bai, a member of the Thakkar community, who’s an experienced forager with years of experience around the depths of the Sahyadri forest.
“My first interaction with foraging was when I visited this magical place called Vanvadi in Maharashtra where I got introduced to the world of foraging with the Thakkar tribal community. That day lives in my memory and an important part of my journey has been understanding foraging, the tribal ways of living, trees, tubers and forest produce that have been ingrained in Indian cooking and medicine for millennia but have been lost along the way,” Motta recalled. For his most recent foraging trip, Motta went to the Sahyadri forest and made a meal with the foraged produce.
“My last foraging trip was a couple of weeks back in the Sahyadri forests near Neral, about 2 hours from Mumbai. We foraged some kurdu leaves which we made bhajiyas out of. We also got our hands on the last few wild kantolas which we cooked in bamboo shoots to make a sabzi. Also, some wild teri leaves which were made into delicious aluvadi using a paste of urad dal flour and some spices,” Motta explains.
“All of this was cooked in mahua oil, another important wild tree across India. We'd collected seeds a couple of months back and got it pressed into oil,” he adds.
Why source and season matter most
Seasonality is key to a foraging experience and monsoon is one of the most interesting times to go foraging in Indian forests. The monsoon season brings a surge in the growth of wild greens, herbs, and mushrooms. Many edible plants that lie dormant during the dry months' spring to life during the rains, be it wild edible greens like fiddlehead ferns, colocasia leaves, and amaranth, or local mushrooms like olmi and rugra.
Mumbai’s Sanjay Gandhi National Park, for instance, sees the growth of the fragile shuttlecock mushroom on termite mounds, every year around August; these mushrooms usually grow after a few days of incessant rain, on leaflitter in well-shaded regions and often disintegrate with rising day temperatures. In Jammu and Kashmir, at least 41 kinds of mushrooms grow across different regions, as per a recent study, including varieties like gucchi, kundi and dudh katt.
“Gucchi are highly prized and are usually found in the forests during late spring, and in monsoon which are mostly spot after a lightning thunderstorm. They often grow in moisture. One needs to have an eye to spot them. It is not everyone’s cup of tea to go forage for them, says Aprajita Bansal, a foraging and permaculture expert who has her own farm in Himachal Pradesh, particularly known for growing apples.
“My farm is surrounded by a forest. So, I don’t usually need to go far for foraging,” says Bansal, who also owns the online farm store Phal Phool where she sells flowers, Pahadi pulses, vegetable seeds and apples from her own farm, which are shipped within 24 hours of plucking. In one of her recent reels, Bansal showcases a wild variety of edible, hilly berries known as Kasmal berries.
“These are small, oval, and vary in colour from red to bluish-black when ripe. For Pahadi people, this fruit is tied to many cherished memories. We used to go crazy after these berries as kids as they are very yummy and leave your tongue purplish after you eat them. Birds are equally fond of them. It is produced by the Berberis aristata shrub,” she breaks down.
Bansal further added, “The fruit is packed with vitamin C and antioxidants. The berries have medicinal properties and are utilized in Ayurvedic medicine to treat digestive issues, skin conditions, and infections due to their antibacterial and anti-inflammatory properties. I have even shared a small video on it on my Instagram.”
Bansal shares the sweet and sour Himalayan raspberries (typically harvested in late summer) and Himalayan blackberries (foraged from late summer to early autumn) are some other varieties of berries commonly found in the lower ranges of the higher altitudes.
In 2018, a study published in Nature magazine confirmed that the Himalayas were the birthplace of all citrus fruits. The study proved that all citrus species available today came from the southeast foothills of the Himalayas, specifically the eastern area of Assam, northern Myanmar and western Yunnan in China. Needless to say, Indian foothills are a treasure trove of wild, edible produce, some of which have stunning nutritional traits.
“The best season for foraging in the higher altitudes is typically from late spring to early autumn, i.e., except winters, you can forage throughout the year. During this time, the snow has melted, and the diverse flora of the region comes to life, offering a variety of edible species,” Bansal shares. Besides mushrooms, berries and edible flowers (like vanafsha), also think of exploring edible greens, which usually grow in small quantities.
“Nettle Plant ( or Bicchu Butti) is a green which is found throughout the summer, young nettle leaves are edible and rich in nutrients. Be sure to harvest them with gloves to avoid the sting, and they must be cooked before eating,” Bansal tells us.
“Another variety is fiddlehead ferns, which are young ferns, harvested in early summer and can be found in moist, shaded areas. These species are not only edible but also deeply embedded in the local cuisine and culture. However, always make sure to forage responsibly and sustainably, and when in doubt, consult with local experts to ensure what you’re harvesting is safe to eat.”
Community and connections
James Beard award-winning chef Alexis Nikole Nelson, who’s also an avid forager shared in a recent interview that whenevr she spots an interesting plant growing in someone's yard, she'll leave a handwritten note with her contact info, which often starts a conversation. “Every single one of us is here today because one of our ancestors, however far back you have to go, foraged and had that knowledge of the land around them," Nelson said.
Community is in many ways the backbone of foraging especially if one is looking for a true connection with nature and the local population. “Local communities hold a wealth of knowledge about what’s safe to eat and where to find it. They have lived in the area for years and they know the land well, the plants, and the fungi that are growing in the wild and guide you to the best foraging spots and help you avoid dangers like toxic plants or over-harvesting. This is especially important with mushrooms, where many dangerous look-alikes exist. Without proper knowledge, you could easily pick a poisonous one,” Bansal points out.
Motta shares how connecting with locals can be particularly helpful for newbie foragers, especially if they are looking to truly explore the region. “Foraging is a way of life, and I would say the real human way of life and there are only a few local tribal communities who are living that. Interacting, observing and maybe living that life is fundamental before one embarks on a personal foraging journey.”
Dos and Don’ts for newbie foragers
Every being has their own right to the produce that you're foraging or exploring. We need to be in sync with the forest and complete eco-system
Foraging sustainably: Understanding how to forage and how much to forage is very important.
Make sure to correctly identify any plant, mushroom or fruit before foraging. Misidentifying wild produce can lead to serious health risks, including poisoning.
Forage responsibility. Do not overharvest. Only take what you need and leave enough behind for the ecosystem to thrive.
Respect Local Ecosystems and Laws. Always be mindful of the environment when foraging. Avoid protected or ecologically sensitive areas, and be aware of any local laws or regulations regarding foraging. Some regions may have restrictions to protect endangered species or fragile habitats.
Avoid Contaminated Areas. Do not forage in areas that might be contaminated with pesticides, industrial pollutants, or waste. Urban areas, roadsides, and agricultural fields treated with chemicals are often unsafe for foraging. Stick to clean, natural environments to ensure the safety of the food you gather.