Diwali, or Deepavali, is one of India’s most cherished festivals, known as the festival of lights, celebrated over five days with a dazzling array of lamps, fireworks, and sweets. But in Malenadu—a lush region nestled on the slopes of the Western Ghats in Karnataka—the celebration takes on a distinct flavour, rich with unique rituals and traditional foods that set it apart.
Malenadu, meaning the "land of hills" in Kannada, stretches across the scenic districts of Chikkamagaluru, Hassan, Kodagu, Shimoga, Uttara Kannada, and Dakshina Kannada. In this picturesque landscape, the festival of Deepavali unfolds over three vibrant days, where each day is woven with customs that pay homage to nature, community, and ancient beliefs.
Here, the Deepavali celebration unfolds over three days, blending rituals that hold deep meaning for the region’s communities, many of whom are rooted in farming traditions. The customs observed during Malnad's Diwali include Harave Neeru Thumbuvudu, oil baths on Naraka Chaturdashi, Govina Pooje (cow worship), Lakshmi Pooja, Balipadyami, antige pintige (team singing folk songs), and the cherished Hirera Habba, each infusing the festival with a distinctly regional touch.
From Oil Baths To Lakshmi Pooje
The first ritual, Harave Neeru Thumbuvudu, involves fetching water from natural sources like rivers or wells. After offering prayers, this water is poured into household troughs or harrows, where medicinal herbs are added in preparation for the oil bath on Naraka Chaturdashi, the festival’s first day. For the oil bath, a mixture of coconut and castor oils, enriched with turmeric powder, is applied to cleanse and rejuvenate the body. Fresh clothes follow this cleansing ritual, and the morning continues with a traditional breakfast that celebrates local ingredients and the season’s bounty.
Malnad kitchens on Diwali morning are busy with families preparing dishes like cheeni kaayi kadubu, a steamed pumpkin and rice cake, perfect for the season when pumpkins are abundant. Another favourite is kotte kadubu, made by steaming fermented rice batter wrapped in jackfruit leaves. "When there are many people, we make kaayi kadubu (steamed coconut rice flour cakes) instead, which is easier. All of these are either served with coconut chutney, appe midi pickle gravy (tender mango pickle gravy), or honey and ghee," says Suma Putuswamy from Tirthahalli in Shimoga.
The second day of Deepavali in Malnad is marked by Lakshmi Pooja, a time when families offer food and prayers to Goddess Lakshmi, the bringer of prosperity. Traditional dishes prepared for this occasion include hesaru bele payasa (green gram dal payasam), lemon rice, and Mangalore cucumber sambar served with steamed rice, filling the home with warm, inviting aromas.
Balipadyami And Kari Habba
The third day, known as Balipadyami, is a significant one dedicated to Lord Balindra. In the morning, govina pooje, or cow worship, takes place. Cows are adorned with decorative brows, painted horns, and areca nut garlands draped around their necks. Revered as symbols of abundance, the cows are prayed to and offered a share of the festive meal.
The Balipadyami lunch includes uddina dose (urad dal dosa) served with mixed vegetable kootu (a hearty vegetable gravy), chagate soppu thambuli (a refreshing curry leaf yoghurt chutney), holige (sweet stuffed flatbread), an assortment of stir-fried seasonal vegetables, Mangalore cucumber sambar, rice, and tender mango pickle. “In every household across Malnad, uddina dose and kootu are essential on Deepavali as the primary offering to Lord Balindra,” says Bharathi from Tudur, near Shimoga, Karnataka.
As evening approaches, families prepare torches to carry to their paddy fields or farms, offering prayers as they sing local folk songs under the setting sun. A group known as antige pintige forms and, lighting a lamp from the temple, they visit each home in the village or town. They sing folk songs for three days, spreading good fortune and blessings wherever they go. Each family welcomes the antige pintige with lit lamps, offering holige and donations of rice and money for community causes.
The day after Balipadyami is celebrated as Kari Habba, a time for non-vegetarian feasts. Homes prepare rice kadubu (steamed rice flour balls) served with chicken or mutton curry, fish gravy, boiled eggs, country-style chicken fry, and dishes made from goat or sheep offal. “Rice kadubu and fish curry, especially from fresh water fish from the river Tunga, cooked over a wood fire, are our family favourites for Kari Habba,” says Jayaprakash Hegde from Megaravalli, near Agumbe.
This tradition-rich Deepavali in Malnad offers a vibrant tapestry of rituals, food, and community bonds, making it a celebration of both heritage and gratitude.