Ilish maach or hilsa is a beloved seasonal staple in eastern India and Bangladesh; across West Bengal, Odisha and some northeastern states like Assam, hilsa is cherished during this season since it’s only available for a few months every year. Since festivals like Durga Puja and Jamai Shashti also fall around these months, hilsa gains even more importance on the festive plate. It has a tender flaky texture and a muted sweet notes which contributes to its rich, buttery taste. Its high oil content contributes to its distinctive, melt-in-the-mouth quality.
Hilsa can be prepared in a variety of ways, from traditional recipes like Shorshe Ilish (hilsa in mustard sauce) and Bhapa Ilish (steamed hilsa) to more contemporary dishes like fried hilsa. Its ability to absorb flavours makes it a versatile ingredient in many cuisines.
One of the most standout elements of hilsa is its super fine bones which are difficult to see and count. The fish has soft, small bones which are kept intact in most traditional recipes. In certain recipes, however, the hilsa is deboned first and deboning this fish can be time-consuming.
Selecting the fish is quite key when it comes to deboning hilsa. It’s best to select a fresh hilsa weighing around 1-1.5 kg for easier handling. Fresh hilsa has a shiny, silvery appearance with clear eyes and firm flesh.
Start by washing the hilsa thoroughly under running water to remove any slime and scales. Use a fish scaler or the back of a knife to gently scrape off the scales. Rinse the fish again to ensure it’s clean. Gather a sharp fillet knife, kitchen shears, a cutting board, tweezers or fish bone pliers, and a clean kitchen towel. These tools will help you handle the delicate task of deboning effectively.
Let’s break down the deboning process
After cleaning, lay the fish on the cutting board and make a slit along the belly from the head to the tail using the fillet knife. Be careful not to cut too deep to avoid damaging the internal organs. Remove the internal organs and clean the cavity thoroughly. Rinse the fish again.
Using kitchen shears, cut off the head just behind the gills. Trim off the dorsal fin (top), pectoral fins (sides near the head), pelvic fins (bottom near the head), and anal fin (bottom near the tail). Lay the fish flat on the cutting board with the belly facing you. Insert the knife at the backbone near the head and gently slide it along the backbone towards the tail, keeping the knife as close to the bones as possible.
Lift the flesh with your other hand as you cut to create a fillet. Repeat on the other side to remove the second fillet. You will now have two fillets and a central bone structure. Lay each fillet skin-side down and locate the rib bones running along the upper sides of the fillet. Carefully slide the knife underneath the rib bones, angling it slightly upwards to avoid cutting through the flesh. Lift and cut the rib bones away from the fillet.
Pin bone removal is also quite crucial to deboning hilsa. Feel for small pin bones by running your fingers along the fillet. Use tweezers or fish bone pliers to gently pull out these bones. Pin bones are often located towards the centre of the fillet and can be numerous, so patience is required. Check the fillets for any remaining bones or uneven edges. Trim any excess skin, fat, or bones for a clean finish.