Tibetan refugees first came to India in 1959 after China forcibly annexed the independent region of Tibet. Their spiritual leader, or Dalai Lama, and some of his followers escaped through the forbidding cold of the Himalayas to India, eventually settling in Dharamsala in Himachal Pradesh. Around 100,00 Tibetan refugees followed him to India over the next year or two. Another wave of refugees came over in the 1980s, swelling the number of Tibetans in India by nearly 20 percent. Even now, anywhere from 3000–4000 Tibetans visit Dharamsala every year, though it is more of a cultural mingling these days than refuge.
This large movement of people led to the creation of a vibrant new home for the refugees that’s alive with their native culture and faith. Inevitably, Tibetan food became a part of Indian street food culture over time and is now a firm favorite for many people across India. McLeodganj in Dharamsala is a bustling marketplace where one can dine on the closest thing to "authentic" Tibetan food. McLeodganj is referred to as ‘Little Lhasa’ by some people (though I’ve never actually met anyone who calls it that!). It is also a popular getaway for the great weather, especially in the summer.
Now, let’s move on to our list of the best Tibetan food in Dharamshala.
1. Soutsemen
A crispy noodle dish with gravy sauce that is ideal for breakfast. Chicken soutsemen is the more famous variety, but you can also get veg, egg, tofu, and mixed soutsemen. Think pan-fried noodles (semi-crisp) with a delicious sauce poured on top of them. You’d think this is a broth (which, technically, it could be), but it’s thick enough to be a sauce all by itself. The dish usually has little to no spice and is quite filling. It costs approximately Rs 150 in most of the restaurants and cafes in Dharamshala.
2. Chicken Momos
How can we talk about Tibetan food and not mention chicken momos? Most cafes here are generous with their serving size, with some of the larger cafes serving up to 10 momos (unlike the upscale Chinese restaurants in our cities that serve 4/6 momos at 3–4 times the price). One thing you mustn’t miss out on is the soy sauce served in the cafes here; there's something a bit more authentic about it here. A shoutout to the garlic and chili chutney at the Four Seasons café—it’s not for the faint-hearted, but it is definitely a fantastic accompaniment to the juicy chicken momos. And what can we say about chicken momos with soy sauce that hasn’t been said already? This is a great snack for when you’re peckish as you waltz around Dharamshala. A plate of chicken momos costs Rs 150–180 in most eateries in McLeodganj.
3. Thentuk
Thentuk is a type of hand-pulled noodle soup. Yes, it’s close to a thukpa (noodle soup) that’s a classic Tibetan and Nepali dish. The difference is in the hand-pulled noodles made from atta or wheat flour. You can get it with chicken and mutton as well. These ‘flat’ noodles are a great addition to the tender chicken pieces in the soup. It looks spicy but really isn’t. The broth has a hint of pepper and sesame seeds for flavor, mixed in with vegetables like spinach, spring onions, tomatoes, etc. Be warned, though: a bowl of Thentuk makes for a very filling lunch. That's not a bad deal for Rs 160.
4. Tibetan breads: Tingmo, Balep
Tingmo is a soft, steamed bread served in most of the restaurants in Dharamshala. Think momos, but with no hollow inside, or stuffing.This bread is made with the same ingredients as momos. Balep is bread that’s used for breakfast and lunch, like a stocky, small, browned paratha. It is usually made with barley and tastes not unlike naan. Both Tingmo and Balep are good accompaniments to the many curries (Tibetan as well as Indo-Tibetan/fusion) that one sees in Dharamshala.
5. Paneer Phing
We mentioned that Dharamshala has a lot of fusion of Indian and Tibetan cuisines. One curry that stood out was Paneer Phing. The name says it all – it is a gravy/broth with pan-fried paneer, broccoli, carrots, spring onions, beans, and zucchini. The curry is light on spices, and you’d do well to have it with a plate of Tingmo. This dish costs around Rs 200 in Dharamshala, and, as with all the other foods mentioned, it comes in very generous portions.
6. Yak Cheese
Walk over to one of the Tibetan bakeries in Dharamshala and ask for yak’s cheese. You’ll be given a pie-shaped dessert on a paper plate. Pie? Yes, a pie made from yak cheese, coconut, and milk and topped with flavorings like chocolate. The dessert is a bit dry (like coconut barfi) in texture but melts in the mouth. The yak cheese leaves a mild aftertaste that is pleasant and is a great way to round off your heavy Tibetan lunch.
7. Shabaklab
This familiar-looking dish is actually a pie. Shabaklab (also called shabalay) is a fried pastry that is semi-spherical in shape. They are usually deep-fried but can be pan-fried too. This crisp, golden-colored dish is stuffed with mutton and onion keema. It can also be had with a steaming vegetable soup. It costs approximately Rs 160.
8. Tibetan Thali
If you’d rather skip the individual dishes and try some of the best Tibetan foods on one plate, the Tibetan thali is a good place to start. You’ll get curries like shapta (gravy dish with ginger and chili), some bread, momos, maybe even a helping of shakam datse (a Bhutanese dish with cheese, beans, and chicken) and chow mien noodles. Sounds filling, doesn’t it? The more popular restaurants also serve a thali that’s heavy on mutton/lamb, so you’ll definitely have a memorable meal.