Smell of freshly baked breads wafts through the air, the early morning runs stop at the nearest bakery bringing alive Fort Kochi, and a part of its rich colonial past. One such breads, breudher or bruder, may be becoming less and less common with time, but vintage eateries and food enthusiasts are playing their part in keeping the bread from becoming a part of history. And here’s why this is important.
Not many would know that Fort Kochi used to be a Dutch colony for more than a century, the Dutch conquered the fort from the Portuguese before surrendering it to the British in the year 1795. Having been ruled by three major European colonizers, Fort Kochi’s culinary landscape also shaped up accordingly, borrowing influences, cooking styles and elements from its colonial predecessors. Many of Kerala’s delicacies today have a Dutch tinge, and it is well known, that the very idea of baking bread was in fact introduced to India by the Europeans, and the sweet, buttery bread called breudher, derived from the Dutch word for bread (broodje) has had quite a journey of its own.
The Eighth Bastion - CGH Earth, a luxury boutique hotel that's a great example of blending contemporary and colonial styles each room has a distinct appeal is known to offer the breudher bread as part of its breakfast everyday. They source the bread directly from these old bakeries, bringing gourmands one step closer to this sweet marvel. Chef Shinto Varghese adds saying "The art of making this bread now only stays with few of the bakeries in Kochi and we are lucky that one of them has agreed to give us our supply of this bread. This simple bread is different from the usual ones that we generally have. This baked yeast bread with raisins which is a symbol of Dutch legacy from the late seventeenth century is much sought after during Christmas".
After the British, the Anglo-Indian community of Fort Kochi have made this bread, which tastes almost like a Kerala plum cake, one of Fort Kochi’s crown jewels. Breudher has a very distinct flavour and aroma, and the cake doesn’t even go by the name of Breudher in most of these bakeries, many Anglo-Indians call it the ‘Dutch Cake’. Besides a handful of vintage bakeries who remain tight-lipped about the recipe of the bread, this cake is also a Christmas staple in Kochi.
There are also a few Anglo-Indian families who prepare Breudher, for their sumptuous festive feasts and each family has its own version, from butter to Chingan banana, the families really go all out with the ingredients.
Besides India, breudher is also popular in Indonesia, Sri Lanka, Singapore and Malaysia. All of these places have been Dutch colonies in past. If you are planning a trip to Fort Kochi soon, make sure you get your share of this bread that is soon becoming a rarity.