Sweets are cherished across the globe and symbolise joy and celebration in every culture. West Bengal and Odisha, two of the most prominent and culturally diverse eastern states, are historically significant in many aspects. Controversies and heated arguments about their beloved sweet Rasagulla (or Rosogolla, as it is known in Bengal) are quite a concern for many food historians. Both states claim historical ties to this iconic sweet. Bengal claims that the rosogolla was first created in Kolkata in the 19th century, while Odisha argues that its Rasagulla has been part of its religious and culinary traditions for centuries.
The debate over the Rasgulla's origins is not new to Bengal and Odisha. Generation after generation, this long-due argument is well discussed. The argument is primarily based on significance and historical evidence related to rasgulla. Bengal's claim revolves around Nobin Chandra Das, a legendary sweetmaker from Kolkata. According to Bengali tradition, Das invented the rosogolla in 1868 by boiling a mixture of chenna (cottage cheese) and semolina in sugar syrup. His innovation transformed the traditional sweet, which made it more accessible and popular across the nation.
Odisha, on the other hand, traces its Rasagulla to ancient religious practices. The sweet is said to have been offered to Lord Jagannath at the Jagannath Temple in Puri as part of ritualistic offerings. According to the historians who support Odisha in terms of the origin of Rasgulla, this practice is believed to date back to the 11th century. The reference can be collected from ancient texts and religious records.
West Bengal's Rosogolla
Creation And Evolution
Nobin Chandra Das's contribution to the Rasogolla is a cornerstone of Bengali culinary heritage. His original recipe, involving a specific method of curdling milk and boiling the chenna in sugar syrup, became the standard for Bengali sweets. This method produced a rosogolla that was round, white, and chewy—a unique texture and taste that distinguished it from other sweets.
In the 1930s, Das's son, Krishna Chandra Das, further advanced the sweet's preservation by introducing vacuum packing. This invention greatly increased Rosogolla's reach and popularity, making it possible for it to be kept and carried across great distances. As the Das family's business expanded, it eventually became the well-known brand KC Das, which is still associated with Bengali sweets.
Cultural Impact
For Bengalis, rosogolla is more than just a sweet; it is a cultural symbol. It represents the ingenuity and craftsmanship of Bengali confectioners. Rosogolla has become deeply ingrained in Bengali celebrations and traditions, often featured at festivals, weddings, and other significant events. The sweet is seen as a mark of Bengali hospitality and culinary excellence.
Odisha's Rasagulla
Ancient Origins
Odisha's claim to Rasagulla's origins is deeply intertwined with its religious and cultural practices. According to local lore, Rasagulla was first offered to Lord Jagannath to appease his consort, Goddess Lakshmi, during the Rath Yatra festival. This tradition has been part of Odisha's cultural heritage for centuries, with Rasagulla being an integral part of the offerings made during religious rituals.
The sweet, referred to as "Pahala Rasagulla" in Odisha, has distinct characteristics that set it apart from its Bengali counterpart. The process of making Rasagulla involves curdling excess milk and preparing the sweet with a softer texture and juicier consistency. Historical references to Rasagulla can be found in texts such as the Dandi Ramayana, written by the 15th-century poet Balaram Das, which mentions the sweet as part of Odisha's culinary tradition.
Distinct Characteristics
Odisha's Rasagulla is known for its unique texture and taste. Unlike the Bengali Rosogolla, which is more chewy, the Odia Rasagulla is softer, juicier, and sometimes has a reddish hue due to caramelisation. This difference in preparation and texture highlights the regional variations in making Rasagulla, adding to its cultural significance.
Geographical Indication (GI) Battle
Legal And Cultural Significance
The battle for the GI tag was a significant aspect of the Rosogolla dispute. The GI tag is a form of intellectual property protection that recognises a product's unique geographical origin and associated qualities. For both West Bengal and Odisha, obtaining a GI tag was crucial in safeguarding their respective versions of Rasgulla and preserving their cultural heritage.
In November 2017, West Bengal's "Banglar Rosogolla" was granted GI status, marking a victory for the state and celebrating the sweet as a symbol of Bengali tradition. This recognition was followed by the declaration of November 14, 2018, as Rasogolla Divas, a day to honour the sweet's cultural significance.
However, Odisha did not relent and filed a petition for its version, "Odishara Rasagulla," highlighting the distinct characteristics of its sweet. On July 29, 2019, Odisha was awarded its GI tag, recognising the unique qualities of its Rasagulla and its historical connection to the Jagannath Temple.
The ongoing battle over the Rasgulla's origins illustrates that it is deeply people's beloved sweet. The GI tags granted to each state's version of Rasgulla have provided legal recognition and protection, ensuring that both versions can be celebrated and preserved. This dispute serves as a reminder of the importance of safeguarding cultural heritage while recognising the diverse contributions of different regions.