Candy is unquestionably the most popular treat among children. Barley sugar or candy canes are sugary delights composed of barley sugar and corn syrup that are soft to bite into. They are available in several colors, which enhances their appeal and makes them more interesting for every child. These treats are available during the festive season of Christmas at iconic bakeries like Nahoum’s and Flury’s in Kolkata. In the New Market of the city, shops sell various items, including glace cherries, candied orange peel, thick mango fruit leather, and barley sugar candy sticks for home bakers. None of these items would be left out in the shops.
What in the world is Barley Sugar?
Barley sugar was created 350 years ago, and has become an emblem and custom for the Christmas holiday. Initially, it was utilized as a decoration for Christmas trees. It was shaped like a straight stick like it is available in Kolkata, and was flavored with sugar. As per legend, in 1670, a choirmaster at Cologne Cathedral in Germany curved the sugar-sticks into canes resembling shepherd's hooks. The all-white candy canes were distributed to children who attended the ceremonies, and this tradition became famous, and eventually, it was followed during church ceremonies in Europe and America.
Religious significance of barley sugar
The candy cane's shape and design are believed by many to hold religious significance. According to popular belief, the red stripes on the candy cane represent Christ's blood, while the white stripes symbolize his purity. The three fine stripes are said to represent the Holy Trinity, and the "J" shape of the candy cane is thought to stand for Jesus. The candy cane's hard texture is seen as a representation of the Church's strong foundation, while the peppermint flavor is said to have originated from the herb hyssop, which was used in the Old Testament to symbolize Jesus' purity and sacrifice. The candy cane's crook shape is also believed to represent a shepherd's crook. Despite the availability of different varieties of candy canes, the classic red and white peppermint candy cane remains a beloved symbol of the Christmas holiday.
How is barley sugar (candy cane) made?
Although the candy cane-making process is now more industrialized, it still begins with the same ingredients as before. A thick yellow syrup is made by boiling water, sugar, and corn starch together. Peppermint flavoring is then added to the mixture, and it is kneaded into a consistent, unappetizing yellow mush. It is stretched and repeatedly wrapped around a central pole, until the candy cane material color changes from yellow to white. A small batch of the candy cane material is dyed dark red and stretched into a single band and wrapped around the log to form a recognizable stripe. Pressure is applied to thin it out and it is twisted slightly, resulting in a spiral effect.
Iconic Places to Buy Candy Cane (Barley Sugar)
Here are some iconic places in Kolkata to buy barley sugar:
Flury’s, Park Street, Kolkata
During the holiday season, this classic bakery undergoes a magical transformation into a winter paradise. The warm and inviting atmosphere is filled with the sweet scent of baked goods, creating a festive ambiance. The menu includes a selection of Christmas cakes, puddings, pastries, and, of course, canes of Barley Sugar in festive colors such as green, red, white, and orange.
Nahoum & Sons, New Market, Kolkata
The one place that is synonymous with Christmas cheer is New Market. The usually bustling market is completely jam-packed in the lead-up to Christmas. The central part of the market houses seasonal stalls that are full of decorations. You can start off with Nahoum’s Fruit Mince Pies and those fat green peppermints that taste like childhood. You can also stock up on barley sugar and stick jaws, both of which would be welcome additions to any Christmas party.
Saldanha Bakery
It is a family-owned business that has been in operation for 80 years and has become something of a hidden gem due to its dedication to providing high-quality confectionery at reasonable prices. The bakery is located in a narrow lane near Goltalab, just a short distance from Ripon Street Triangular Park and within walking distance of Park Street. Despite its delicious offerings, Saldanha Bakery prefers to remain modest and not draw attention to itself. After the recent passing of Mona Saldhana, one of the bakery's co-owners and innovators, my friends and I tried a variety of items and silently mourned her loss.