Avartana In Delhi: Journey Through Progressive South Indian Food

When you list the most globally renowned restaurants of Delhi, the names Bukhara and Dum Pukht are always show up on top. Both these ITC Maurya, New Delhi properties have been favourites with generations of Delhi diners for decades now. With the recently opened Avartana, one more hard-to-miss option has been added to Delhi diners’ joy!  

For those who don’t know, Avartana at ITC Maurya, New Delhi builds on the immense success of Avartana at ITC Grand Chola, Chennai. Serving up “progressive South Indian cuisine” since 2017, Avartana has made it to Asia’s 50 Best Restaurants list in 2024, making it an immediate hotspot Delhi’s who’s-who have flocked to. The 54-seater restaurant on one of the topmost floors of ITC Maurya not only offers a breathtaking view of Lutyens’ Delhi but also a curated gastronomic tour of the entire South Indian region. 

“Passion drives us to create and serve the best in hospitality. We are delighted to bring the fifth ‘Avartana’ to the capital city of New Delhi. Having earned coveted accolades and charmed food connoisseurs worldwide, Avartana has elevated culinary artistry inspired by the rich southern Indian cuisine heritage infused with progressive, innovative techniques. Bukhara, Dum Pukht and Avartana bring iconic dining experiences to ITC Maurya,” says Anil Chadha, Chief Executive, ITC Hotels.  

Also Read: Delhi’s Iconic Bukhara Turns 45: Tradition, Nostalgia And An Unchanged Menu

But is a meal at Avartana really an iconic dining experience that can match up to the popularity of Bukhara and Dum Pukht? This author believes yes, Avartana does offer foodies a chance to take a culinary tour of South India’s best ingredients through its unique, curated menus. More than that, it is an experience that Delhi foodies should not miss. Here’s why.  

How An Impeccable Dining Experience Is Created At Avartana 

Pronounced as Avartan in Sanskrit, Avartana caters to a universal palate by showcasing South India’s best ingredients and culinary techniques in a modern, plated menu format. Rustic serveware, steel cutlery, contemporary glassware set atop white linen sheet-covered tables greet diners at this restaurant. And then you are offered a choice of five curated menus, each offering a very different experience. Maya (7 courses), Bela (9 courses), Jiaa (11 courses), Anika (13 courses) and Tara (13 courses) each offer a mix of vegetarian and non-vegetarian dishes that feature the best of South Indian food in a progressive manner. 

Given that these five signature menus are available across all five branches of Avartana in India and Colombo, Sri Lanka, you might wonder about the consistency in terms of flavour and service—but the chefs and staff at Avartana have that sorted. “All our chefs working at ITC are trained in European cuisines, but every chef associated with Avartana has made an effort to master South Indian ingredients, techniques and flavours,” says Chef Manish Kakkar, who heads the kitchen at Avartana, ITC Maurya. “It’s all about training and communication, and everyone in the team spends time at Avartana in Chennai before taking on their assignments. We're all chefs from different parts of the country, but we have that commitment to present something that has firm South Indian roots.” 

Chef Manish also explains that to maintain the integrity and flavours of every dish, most of the ingredients are sourced from Chennai. Dominic, a member of the service staff at the restaurant, also explains that everyone from the servers to the mixologists are given intensive training about the menu and its core ingredients, making every aspect of your dining experience impeccable. It is because of this wholehearted dedication that the experience at Avartana stands out.  

A Closer Look At The Anika Menu At Avartana 

If this inspires you to visit Avartana at ITC Maurya soon, and you do want to try out one of the longer courses, we recommend the Anika menu. Considered to be the star menu of the restaurant, the Anika menu offers a mix of vegetarian and non-vegetarian dishes, and the latter includes everything from chicken, fish and prawns to pork, lamb and lobster—not to mention a whole array of spices, sauces and more which would qualify as South Indian classics. 

The menu starts with two amuse bouche dishes. The Cucumber Lollipop is a crunchy, slightly sweet one-bite delight that freshens up the palate. The Crispy Chilli Potato 2.0 is reminiscent of a tangy-sweet-spicy chaat that will please any Delhi foodie. The dish comes with a globe filled with a pineapple-flavoured liquid that bursts the moment you put it in your mouth. When consumed in one bite, the crispy-spicy potatoes and the pineapple gel provide an explosion of flavours that get the mouth to salivate—and that’s just what you need at the beginning of a meal. 

The Stir-Fried Chicken has a crispy coating and perfectly cooked chicken nestled inside. The Curry Leaf Tempura served with the dish accentuates the crunchiness of the dish. A South Indian meal is incomplete without Rasam, and at Avartana, this classic broth gets a unique upgrade because it is distilled and served in a martini cocktail glass, making the tanginess and slight punch of chilli sing like never before. 

The Cauliflower Crunch, however, is a true testament to the progressive and sustainable philosophy that Avartana upholds. Every part of the vegetable is presented on the plate: the stem is dehydrated and brushed with spicy Podi to represent a classic Papadam. The crispy cauliflower fritters and the coconut-cauliflower sauce offer a unique medley of flavours that will transport you to South India immediately. 

The Pan-Seared Lobster that comes next has a buttery soft texture, with the spring onion emulsion served with it adds to the smoothness of the dish. And while the lobster is clearly the hero of this dish, the tapioca crisp once again reminds you of Papadam served with South Indian meals. If you are tired of over-spiced dumplings served at restaurants today, the Shrimp & Coriander Dumpling will come as a true surprise. Served with Gunpowder Podi on the side, this this is very coriander forward, especially with the chilli coriander jam beneath the pristine dumpling. 

The Lamb Brain Fritter again plays on the soft, buttery texture of the offal cut. The soft, jammy onions served with it accentuates this softness, while the rawa dosa shard provides an impeccable contrast. This one is a rich dish that absolutely justifies the use of the Orange and Ginger Sorbet as a palate cleanser that follows. Next comes the Steamed Seabass, a dish that does justice to the fish with its perfect cook and is served on a bed of rice and gongura emulsion, making this a take on Andhra-style Gongura Rice. 

As the menu gets richer, next comes the Asparagus And Coconut Stew. Steamed asparagus is served on a bed of Idiyappam, and the slightly sweet coconut stew is poured on top at the table. The crunchy asparagus, the soft Idiyappam and the sweet coconut stew again represent the clean textures of every ingredient. The Char Grilled Pork Belly that follows not only features melt-in-the-mouth pork but also a punchy Chayote Pachadi and sublime Steamed Tapioca—if you love a good pork dish, you will certainly crave more of this one. For those who don’t eat pork, a lamb dish similar in its flavour delivery is offered as an option by the chefs at Avartana. 

Also Read: One Fish To Rule Them All: Is The Hype Around Hilsa In Bengali Cuisine Really Justified?

Next up is the Uthukuli Chicken served with Malabar Parotta. Heavy on coconut cream, this rich chicken dish is simply perfect when paired with coin-sized Parottas. If you are already too full like this author was, you can skip straight to the pre-dessert and dessert—but we recommend you slow your pace and give the Lamb Rice served with Okra Yogurt a try anyways. 

Not every restaurant that nails its appetizers and mains manages to present incredible desserts, but Avartana does this with a panache that will make you come back again for another meal. The Raw Mango Pudding is a gastronomic and visual delight. Served in a rustic stone plate, this one comes with a ghee candle that is lit by the servers at the table. Once the ghee melts, you have to crush up the Papadam and dig into the sweet-sour pre-dessert.  

The piece de resistance of this incredible meal at Avartana comes with their Citrus Coconut served with Coffee Ice Cream. Apart from being a visual sensation—the chocolate shell and the pristine, white coconut will remind you of real cracked coconuts—this dessert is so well balanced that you will wonder why you haven’t tried eating a coconut-forward sweet dish with Filter Kaapi before! When you walk away from your meal at Avartana, it is not only with a lingering taste of coconuts and coffee, but also the flavours of a unique paan—after all, doesn’t every traditional Indian meal end with this betel nut favourite?  

A dinner at Avartana, therefore, is not a thing you should miss—especially if you are a New Delhi-based foodie who is not stuck up on the tired old idea of just idli-vada-dosa as South Indian fare. The restaurant will also not provide you with “authentic” dishes from the five South Indian states and the myriads of cuisines each region offers. What it will do is introduce you to ingredients from the micro-cuisines of South India that you never knew about and elements that you always took for granted in a typical meal from Karnataka, Kerala, Tamil Nadu, Andhra Pradesh and Telangana. Chef Manish Kakkar, in parting, nails what diners should truly expect from ITC’s labour of love: “If you are a Delhi-based foodie who is truly open to trying something new, then you will love what we do at Avartana.”