In the heart of India's enchanting northeastern region lies a land that thrives on a grain of immense significance. Welcome to Assam, where the rhythmic sway of paddy fields tells a tale of abundance and prosperity. Here, rice reigns supreme, weaving its golden strands into the very fabric of the state's economy. Every meal begins and ends with rice, and though Assam’s many tribal communities each have their rituals and traditions, rice is one thing that they all share a love for.
Though it may be an emotional connection today, Assam’s relationship with rice was down to a fortuitous set of factors. Assam, blessed with fertile soil and a generous monsoon, is home to a diverse array of rice varieties. The people of Assam, with their age-old technique and deep-rooted knowledge, perfected the art of rice cultivation over centuries, nurturing this humble grain into a symbol of identity and a lifeline for their economy.
The Journey Of Rice Cultivation In Assam
Rice cultivation has been an integral part of Assam's history for over 2,000 years. The region's favourable climate has provided an ideal environment for rice cultivation. The wet-rice cultivation in Assam can be traced back to the Ahom dynasty, which ruled the region for nearly six centuries, from the 13th to the 19th century. Under the Ahoms, rice cultivation flourished, and the administration implemented innovative irrigation techniques and introduced new varieties of rice. The Ahoms were not only skilled rice cultivators but also connoisseurs of rice, developing intricate systems of classification and preserving a wide range of rice varieties.
Assam boasts a diverse range of indigenous rice varieties that have been cultivated for centuries, embodying the region's cultural heritage and agricultural prowess. However as modernity and climate change take their toll, farmers across the state find that sticking to their old methods isn’t serving the same purpose that it used to. Hybrid and high-yielding rice grains are in higher demand which is slowly depleting the number of farmers growing traditional rice grains.
Additionally, with the weather changing, around 30 lakh hectares, or almost 40%, of the total land in the state is now considered prone to flooding, according to the National Flood Commission and hybrid grains often don’t have the natural capabilities to withstand that climate. A method called the System of Rice Intensification (SRI) has been introduced to try to combat this which involves introducing new submergence-resistant rice varieties. This move is a double-edged sword for conservationists however who are now concerned that hybrid strains will outnumber and eventually eradicate ancient ones.
The Role Of Rice In Assamese Cuisine
Rice is more than mere sustenance; it is a catalyst for cultural celebration. In Assam's vibrant festivals, such as Bihu, rice takes centre stage, embodying the spirit of joy and togetherness. It forms the canvas for traditional delicacies, where fragrant rice dishes emerge as culinary masterpieces, nourishing both body and soul. These feasts become a melting pot of traditions, uniting communities and fostering social cohesion.
Rice is the backbone of Assamese cuisine, serving as the staple food and heart of every meal. Assam offers a range of rice varieties, from fluffy boiled rice to fragrant options like Joha and Aijong rice as well as a plethora of different traditional preparation methods served along with Khar. Rice takes on various forms and becomes the cornucopia of dishes in Assṣamese cuisine.
Below are just a few ways rice is integrated into Assamese dishes:
- Akhoi: An iron pan holds paddy overnight in the dew, brought inside during the day for three days. Sprinkled on heated sand and separated, the husk is removed to complete this Assamese dish.
- Xandah: Rice soaked for days, fried and pounded with a "dheki" wooden mill. The dheki, a rural household tool, husks grains and grinds. An age-old tradition in Assamese homes.
- Chira: Paddy boiled, dried, dehusked, and parched over a fire and pounded while hot. Another method immerses paddy in water, heated until boiling, left overnight, drained, parched, and pounded. The husk is then removed by winnowing. It is served with gud and curd at celebrations.
- Muri: Paddy boiled, parched, and de-husked. Assamese snacks combine chira, akhoi, and muri with curd and molasses. Assam is known for rice cakes called "pitha." Popular ones include til pitha, ghila pitha, sungapitha.
- Til pitha: Long, thin shape with a unique taste. A mixture of sesame seeds and molasses covered in rice powder. Bora rice is commonly used.
- Sunga pitha: Rice powder and sugar paste wrapped in banana leaves, stuffed in bamboo, and roasted over a fire. The tube-shaped rice is then served with hot milk or yoghurt.
- Ghila pitha or Tel pitha: Rice powder and molasses fried in mustard oil or salt and cooked on a traditional chowka. Fewer spices, but delicious and healthy.
- Payas or Parmanna: Rice boiled in milk with sugar.
- Poitabhat: Cooked rice soaked overnight in cold water and eaten the next morning.
- Luthuri pitha: A food for young children made by boiling rice.
- Sijua pitha: A nutrition-rich dish believed to benefit weak and sick people.
Though rice does take up more space at the table, it would be almost sinful not to note the many beverages that have been derived from rice. Rice beer is a traditional alcoholic drink in Assamese society, known by different names among the various tribes of Assam. The Ahoms, Mishings, Mikirs, Karbis, Deoris, and other tribes consume rice beer, which remains popular to this day. William Robinson describes in his book that the Mikirs steep rice in water, dry and pound it into cakes, smoke them for several days, soak them again, and draw off the liquor.
The Mising tribe calls rice beer "Apongor Laopani," while the Ahoms call it "xaj." These rice preparations are integral to Assamese food culture, served during festivals like "Bihu" and for guests. Rice beer is considered sacred by tribes such as the Deuris, Tiwas, Mishings, and Ahoms. The Deuris value it highly for entertaining guests, while the Tiwas believe it was sent by their supreme God. The Mishings consider it prestigious and offer it to guests, while the Garos view rice beer as a nutritious food and give it to their deities. These traditions reflect the special place of rice preparations in Assamese society and culture.
Economic Significance Of Rice In Assam
Today, the significance of rice in Assam's economy can be felt in every aspect of life. According to the Rice Knowledge Bank Of Assam, it makes up 2.54 million ha (hectares) of the gross cropped area of 4.16 million ha and is 96% of the food grain production of the state. Assam is also very well-recognised for its rich rice genetic diversity. It is the backbone of agriculture, a pillar on which countless farmers rely to support their families.
Moreover, rice extends its influence beyond the borders of Assam, as it becomes a vital component of trade and commerce. Exported to neighbouring states and even foreign lands, the rice of Assam carries with it the essence of its rich soil and the hard work of its farmers. As of 2021, Assam began exporting its Red Rice, Bao Dhan to the USA and the sale of non-Basmati rice exports jumped 125% from the year before (via PIB Delhi). It’s easy to see that when done right, rice opens doors to economic growth, generating income and providing livelihood opportunities for countless individuals.
Beyond the fields, rice spills into bustling markets, where its value reverberates. The aroma of freshly cooked rice dances through the air, tempting palates and stirring appetites. And amid vibrant bazaars, rice sellers and traders barter and bargain, a symphony of commerce and culture awaits. The pulse of Assam throbs in harmony with the humble rice grain.