In what was a historic judgement in 2018, the Indian Supreme Court abolished Section 377 of the Indian Constitution, making Lesbian, Gay, Bisexual, Transgender, Queer, Intersex and Asexual (LGBTQIA+) relationships legal in India. In 2023, the Supreme Court also heard petitions to legalise same-sex marriage and adoptions. On October 17, 2023, the Supreme Court made incredibly pertinent observations regarding same-sex marriage in India, even though the petitions were finally turned down.
So, while there is still quite a distance India’s legal system has to travel before this nation turns into a safe space for the queer community, every step taken in this direction can make a difference. And here, the role played by the food and beverage industry of the nation has always allied with the queer community, thanks immensely to the many openly LGBTQIA+ chefs, restaurateurs and industry experts.
From making the hospitality sector safe for the queer community customers to creating a platform from where to empower queer persons in the field, these LGBTQIA+ icons in the Indian food and beverage industry have had quite a deep impact. Their influence has been so widespread that even Indian series like Modern Love: Mumbai have celebrated their lives by nuanced storytelling. Here are some such LGBTQIA+ food icons of India that you should know more about.
Video Credit: YouTube/DIVA Casa
Ritu Dalmia
As one of the five petitioners against Section 377 in Supreme Court, Chef Ritu Dalmia is now known not only as a consummate leader in the food industry but also as an inspiration to many who identify as queer in India. Hailing from a conservative Marwari family to now running the DIVA Group of restaurants across India, this Indian LGBTQIA+ chef is nothing short of legendary.
Keshav Suri
A co-petitioner of Ritu Dalmia’s, Keshav Suri is known across India for being the man behind the Lalit Hotels and clubs like Kitty Su. As the executive director of the Lalit Suri Hospitality Group, the impact of this industry stalwart has created everything from gender-neutral bathrooms at hotels to drag performances at Kitty Su.
Anumitra Ghosh Dastidar
From educating the people of India about the heirloom grains that are getting lost to being an out-and-proud business owner, Anumitra Ghosh Dastidar has had quite a positive impact on both the nation’s culinary scene and the LGBTQIA+ community. She runs Edible Archives, a place dedicated in Goa to preserving India’s culinary heritage, with co-owner Shalini Krishan who also identifies as queer.
Ami Shroff
This young mixologist not only identifies as queer but is also famed for being the nation’s first female flair bartender—meaning that as a mixologist, she not only creates incredible drinks but also sets them on fire to present a rare culinary experience for foodies. Her work includes talking openly about education those in the hospitality sector about the LGBTQIA+ community.
Prateek Bakhtiani
This award-winning chocolatier runs Ether: Atelier Chocolat in Mumbai, and has been recognised for speaking out about being gay in the food world time and again. Challenging the “don’t ask, don’t tell” approach that many in the food and beverage industry take, Chef Prateek Bakhtiani is leading the way for a new generation of pâtissiers and chefs in India.
Suvir Saran
This American-Indian chef and cookbook author is known worldwide as one of the proponents of creating safe spaces for the LGBTQIA+ community in the food and beverage industry, globally and not just in India. Believing that getting safety and respect from co-workers can inspire the work of LGBTQIA+ chefs and restaurateurs, Suvir Saran is quite the inspiration for LGBTQIA+ people everywhere.
Khuzaan Dalal-Taha Khan
In the heart of Pune’s posh Kalyani Nagar, partners Taha Khan and Khuzaan Dalal run what is one of the city’s leading modern bakeries and cafes. Their Parisian-style Le Flamington café is known not only for creating single-origin chocolates, artisanal breads and great coffee, but also creates a safe space for the LGBTQIA+ community and their allies in the city.